I’d been to Bakery & Table two or three times before its recent happy-hour launch. The establishment, part of a Japanese chain dating back to 1937, opened a year ago on the corner of King and Piikoi streets.

The bakery part of B&T, as it’s known, occupies the first floor, selling sweet and savory delights. Upstairs is an indoor dining area and spacious, walled terrace.

As much as I love some fresh-baked bread, it’s the terrace that keeps bringing me back. I was hoping happy hour would give me another reason to return.

The experience

The terrace’s green-washed stone and plaster walls are high enough to block out most of the surrounding cityscape, putting patrons in a modern Mediterranean mindset.

Taking up the makai wall is a $250,000, Italian-crafted copper mural of flowering cactuses. On the far, Ewa end of the terrace, sheets of water tumble down a dark slate wall as flames dance from three outlets for a mesmerizing duet of fire and water.

The ambient sound of falling water masks the traffic noise, further enhancing the illusion that you’re not at King and Piikoi anymore.

Happy hour, from 4:30 to 6 p.m. daily except Monday, when the place is closed, is restricted to a small seating area indoors at the bar and the roomy outdoor lounge, protected from the elements by open-beam structures covered with sheets of clear plastic.

You can sit at the bar, at tables or banquettes, or in a living-room-style area equipped with a fire pit — all furnished in contemporary European style. The place can easily accommodate several large groups at a time without feeling crowded. On our visits the patrons have been young and old, mostly professionals.

Parking is a problem, as it is almost anywhere nowadays. You can’t get there by turning right off South King Street; approach from Piikoi or Alohi Way off Pensacola. If there’s no room in the tiny parking lot, look for openings on the street.

The food

The happy-hour menu’s $5 plates include fresh oysters (three pieces), wings, ceviche, sashimi (four pieces) and other fare. For $8 the selections include shrimp cocktail (four pieces), herbed grill chicken and seared ahi tuna poke tartare; and for $10, sliders, poke, teriyaki hamachi and olive caprese.

Our personable server recommended the teri hamachi and shrimp kushiyaki ($8), three pieces grilled on skewers with a coconut curry sauce. She assured me the shrimp wasn’t too spicy, but even my chili-friendly partner was left panting. The two pieces of fish were OK, nothing special. Both dishes were garnished with a tangle of spiralized beets. Which is fine if you like beets. (I don’t.)

Disappointed with our first foray, we decided to give B&T another try. Good call.

We got much better advice this time, ordering the trio of sliders featuring balsalmic-glazed, herb-marinated chicken — a nice change-up from the usual beef — with arugula and sliced tomato on incredibly fresh rolls.

The chunky ahi tartare was lightly seared, brushed with a truffle glaze and served atop diced avocado of perfect ripeness. To feast the eye, a garnish of beets (again!) and an edible pansy. It was very pretty and very fresh-tasting, although chips or crostini would have provided a nice contrasting crunch and made it easier to scoop up.

Also a winner: the fried calamari ($8), better than most with fat, tender rings coated in Rice Krispies crumbs and drizzled with yuzu aioli.

The drinks

The craft cocktail menu changes daily, but all are mixed with care using house-made simple syrups. Choices over our two visits included sangria, a raspberry mojito and Blue Hawaii, but our favorite was a refreshing — and stiff — spiked lilikoi lemonade with Skyy vodka, lilikoi puree, fresh-squeezed lemon juice and Tahitian vanilla syrup to soften the tartness of the other ingredients.

Lilikoi can be cloying, but that was not the case here. And $5 for a craft cocktail is a bargain.

Also well priced: draft beer for $3 (Bud Light or a Kona Brewing Co. selection) and $4 (Asahi), and pitchers for $8 and $12, respectively. A glass of the house merlot, chardonnay or prosecco is $5.

The verdict

Even when the food’s been hit or miss, I’ve always left Bakery & Table feeling relaxed and satisfied. The unique setting offers a sophisticated respite from the urban rat race.

It’s worth a visit just to see that fire-water wall. Especially if you like beets.