Peas please in this classic creamy salad

Think of a pea salad as a green cousin to macaroni salad — creamy and mild, quick to assemble and suited to making ahead for parties or potlucks.

Albert Vivas asked for a recipe for the salad as served at Kincaid’s, which is appropriate, as the restaurant is closing at the end of May after 41 years, due to the redevelopment of its Ward Warehouse home.

The salad is a classic known as a Broadway Pea Salad, incorporating water chestnuts and bacon with a dressing made of mayonnaise and sour cream. I have a basic recipe, which you could dress up with any of these ideas:

>> Add something smoky: The bacon is a good start, but pump this up with ham or another smoked meat, or even smoked almonds. Whatever you add should be cut up pea-sized for consistency in the salad.

>> Add something tart: To cut the creaminess, incorporate some acidity in the form of a citrus juice or vinegar. Use at least 2 tablespoons to make an impression.

>> Add crunch: The water chestnuts provide a subtle bit of snap, but to really go for the gusto, add peanuts, celery, carrots, apples or jicama.

>> Make it even creamier: Try diced bits of cheddar cheese, or fold in some shredded Parmesan.

>> Lighten it up: Replace the sour cream with plain yogurt.

Basic Broadway Pea Salad

• 1 (10- to 12-ounce) bag frozen baby peas (about 2 cups), thawed
• 1 (8-ounce) can water chestnuts (about 1 cup), diced
• 1/4 cup diced onion
• 3 strips bacon
• Lettuce leaves, for serving
• Cherry tomatoes, halved, for garnish
• >> Dressing:
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Rinse peas; drain well. Combine with water chestnuts and onions.

Whisk together dressing ingredients, then fold into pea mixture. Stir until evenly distributed. Cover and refrigerate overnight to let flavors merge.

Chop bacon and cook until crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Serve salad in lettuce leaf, topped with bacon and garnished with tomatoes. Serves 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on 1 to 2 cherry tomatoes per serving): 160 calories, 11 g total fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 300 mg sodium, 11 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 2 g sugar, 4 g protein.

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