Modern-day speakeasies emerge from an illicit past

When the United States outlawed alcohol in the early 20th century, people from all walks of life turned into criminals simply because they refused to give up drinking.

The 18th Amendment took effect in 1918, banning the manufacturing, transportation and sale of liquor nationwide. Within a few years the speakeasy — a secret, illegal drinking establishment — was flourishing. In New York, for example, anywhere from 30,000 to 100,000 speakeasies were in operation by 1925, the National Archives estimates. Their heyday lasted until Congress repealed Prohibition in 1933.

As the 100th anniversary of Prohibition approaches, the speakeasy concept has enjoyed a resurgence across the country. They might no longer be illegal, but they bring back the look and feel of bars of that time period.

In Honolulu one has opened, embracing this concept, with another two to debut in the coming weeks.

HI BRAU ROOM

In early April, Steve Sombrero and Dave Campbell opened the Hi Brau Room above their Aloha Beer Co. on Queen Street. Beverage director Brad Miller described it as a “speakeasy-style” space where guests can relax on oversize leather chairs and couches with craft cocktails and ABC beers.

“People are going to say that Hi Brau is a speakeasy because it feels like that,” said Miller. “But a speakeasy was illegal and hard to find, and we’re totally legal and not that hard to find.”

A dark, unmarked stairway leads to Hi Brau’s main entrance, which is shrouded with curtains to lend an additional air of secrecy. Once inside, Miller said, it’s more about the overall vibe rather than an effort to emulate a specific time period.

The room’s Marantz amplifier is hooked up to a turntable and vintage speakers made decades after the ’20s, he explained. “We’ve got ’70s rock gods hanging on the walls. So it’s more about nostalgia. We don’t want to force the speakeasy label on this.”

With space for just 45 and a no-reservations policy, the Hi Brau Room has already been forced to turn away guests. Aloha Beer Co. has provided a built-in customer base while also offering an alternative when no seats are available upstairs.

“Our regulars who drink here Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays were among the first customers in here on Fridays and Saturdays,” Miller said. “We’re not advertising, so the only way people are finding us is by word of mouth and social media. I’m very happy with where we’re at two months in.”

HARRY’S HARDWARE EMPORIUM

After celebrating five years at Pint + Jigger last week, barman Dave Newman is barreling down the homestretch with partners Daryn Ogino, Nicky Ogino, Grace Simon and Hideo Simon to open Harry’s Hardware Emporium next door on South King Street.

In true speakeasy fashion, there’s no indication on the outside that Harry’s is anything other than a place to pick up items more appropriate for construction projects than craft cocktails. But if you’re lucky enough to be tipped off to the secret entrance — and can pass muster with the Harry’s employee outside who will serve as gatekeeper — you’ll be rewarded with an experience unlike anything currently available in Hawaii.

“The main area that I’m incredibly focused on is knowledge and hospitality,” Newman said. “You can stock 100 whiskeys behind your bar, and that’s great, but I don’t consider you a whiskey bar if none of your staff can talk about them.

“So that knowledge factor is important, but I also want to absolutely blow people away with hospitality, where you’re just like, wow, these people are incredibly appreciative of us being here.”

The interior is meant to evoke a sense of New Orleans or Chicago in the 1920s with tin ceilings and retro-style wall treatments. Other concepts adapted from Newman’s travels across the country include a copper tray built into the back bar to showcase hand-carved ice and a rolling drink cart that will allow for table-side cocktails. Newman is also proud of a planned drip-your-own absinthe station, which he said he’s never seen before at a bar.

Harry’s Hardware Emporium will open with just 38 seats, and while reservations will be taken, about half of the room will be left for walk-ins. Newman said he expects to build on the cocktail philosophy of Pint + Jigger.

“Take our house Old-Fashioned, which is made with Bulleit whiskey on the Pint side. It’s amazing,” he said. “We’ll take that same drink and make it with a higher-level whiskey at Harry’s. We’ll be making our house Old-Fashioned on that side with Eagle Rare that’s been barrel-aged. So now I’m investing in a barrel and sitting on product inside of it for four months before I’m even ready to sell it. If I have about 12 barrels in there resting, you’re literally talking about $10,000 worth of alcohol. So that’s where the elevation comes in.”

GASLAMP

Recent University of San Diego graduate Joshua VanEmmerick plans an authentic speakeasy experience with his new bar, Gaslamp, opening later this month. First, you’ll have to find the right old-fashioned telephone booth inside Kailua Town Pub and press the correct button for access.

If you’re lucky enough to be buzzed in, a secret door will provide access to a 600-square-foot space that once served as storage for a wine bar next door. Bar seating and private booths will provide about 40 spots for the type of discriminating customer whose numbers are growing exponentially in Windward Oahu, the lifelong Kailua resident said.

“Kailua is turning into almost a mini-Kakaako, but in about five years I think we’ll be booming past that neighborhood,” said VanEmmerick. “The Gaslamp district in San Diego is what inspired me to go this route and kind of transform my idea into what I think the Windward side needs, which is a really good craft cocktail spot.”

He’s not so much into the secrecy of a speakeasy, though. “I want people to know about it. I want there to be a buzz. You may not know exactly what is going on, but something is happening here and it’s going to be really cool.”

VanEmmerick has enlisted the help of liquor industry veterans Joey Gottesman and Dave Power to develop Gaslamp’s drink program, which will be a mix of craft beer and cocktails influenced by his college experience in Southern California. A limited menu of small plates will also be available.

“My vision is to serve classic cocktails with a modern flair,” he said. “A lot of people don’t want to go to town and drink, then have to drive back over to Kailua.

“I want to make this an interactive spot where people connect with the place and have a more meaningful dialogue with our staff than just getting smashed at the Pub.”

Jason Genegabus has written about the local bar and drink scenes since 2001. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram or email jason@staradvertiser.com.