Lulu’s makes you feel right at home — with a spectacular view

Lulu’s is one of those classically friendly, comfortable restaurants in Waikiki. Open for 12 years now in a site previously occupied by a Denny’s, it makes no pretensions about being trendy or fashionable. What it is is accessible: right on the corner of Kapahulu and Kalakaua avenues, with open-air windows looking out over Waikiki Beach.

Chicago-based restaurateur John Leahy is the main owner of Lulu’s, with the backing of local part-owners like Hans Hedemann, owner of the famous surf shop, and former University of Hawaii football coach June Jones. Chicago transplant Dave Otis is the manager, and he recognizes that Lulu’s location is probably its most redeeming feature. He’s made sure not to waste it.

“We’ve kept it so casual,” he said. “We understand we’re on the beach, so daytime you come in without your shirt, we’re very good about that. We do like you to have shoes. But we understand the nature of the casualness here in Hawaii.”

The experience

You can’t really beat the view from Lulu’s. Located on the second floor of the Park Shore Waikiki hotel, it has wraparound sight lines over Kalakaua Avenue, the beach, the zoo and Kapahulu. Just as nice is the seating along those open views, with wood countertops lining the windows. You face out, looking at the view. I suppose oversensitive significant others might get touchy about the fact that you’re not looking dreamily into each other’s eyes, but you are side by side.

If you’re there for early happy hour — it starts at 3 p.m. — you can sit on the ocean side and get a nice view of the Walls area of Waikiki. If you’re there later in the day, the late afternoon sun might be bright — there’s good screening all around, so it’s not a big worry — but a seat on the Diamond Head side allows for a view of the mountain and the zoo. It would be an excellent place to watch a Sunset on the Beach event.

That being said, the rest of Lulu’s is comfy, too, with rustic, wood furniture and a nice big bar with plenty of overhead TV screens for sports fans. And while one can say there’s never enough parking in Waikiki, you have a good shot most days of finding a space at the zoo or in Kapiolani Park.

The food

There are no happy-hour discounts on food, although if you’re there after 11 p.m., you can probably get a special on something. Ryan Paulo, a bar manager, said Lulu’s prefers a low-key approach, allowing for more interaction between customers and bar staff.

Workers in the food and beverage industry, take note: Lulu’s offers half-price menu items for you on Monday nights after 11 p.m.

“They take care of Waikiki,” Paulo said. “They take care of the island, so we just want to have a day where we take care of them.”

We ordered appetizers — coconut shrimp ($14), pork egg rolls ($12) and teriyaki steak bites ($20) — and they were quite nice. The coconut shrimp, prepared conventionally with a coating of panko and coconut, deep fried, was enhanced by a sweet lilikoi sauce. The teriyaki steak bites, cooked medium rare as requested, were perhaps a bit too sweet but otherwise well prepared. The pork egg rolls were enhanced by a sweet chili dipping sauce.

Other pupu are available, including ahi poke ($18), calamari ($14) and chicken wings ($17).

The drink

Lulu’s daily happy hour takes place from 3 to 5 p.m., with specials on beer, well drinks, mai-tais and daiquiris.

Paulo said discussion over what drink to order usually ends with the mai tai – a good deal for $5 – but Lulu’s frozen daiquiris are popular, too. We had one of the newer flavors, a colorful mix of mango and strawberry dubbed the Kilauea. It was one of the best daiqs I’ve ever had — just the right amount of rich mango and tart strawberry. It went down as easily as a smoothie, no alcohol flavor at all. I suppose that might be dangerous if you have a second one, so take a walk on the beach afterward to clear your head.

Lulu’s also offers occasional drink specials. On Wednesdays, for example, Kona draft is just $3. So it’s always good to ask.

The verdict

One of the questions that always comes up about Lulu’s is the name. Who is Lulu? Seems a little odd to name a place after a Scottish pop star known for “To Sir With Love.” Or maybe it was named after a lulu, to use old-fashioned slang for “hottie.”

None of the above, Otis says definitively. It’s simply named for the last two syllables of Honolulu. I suppose it might better have been named Kiki’s, but it’s worked out so far for Lulu’s, with a great location, good service and food, and an appropriately laid-back vibe.