Flavors of South found in Aiea

Hawaii may be the southernmost state in the U.S., but when Southern food is contemplated, it is not kalua pork and poi that fire up the salivary glands. Rather, it’s dishes like fried chicken, smothered pork chops, collard greens and cornbread.

And to wash it down: sweet tea in a Mason jar. And not some anemic version of sweetened ice tea from a soda fountain. You need a proper Southern amount of sugar in it, said Ken Hughley, chef and owner of Hughley’s Southern Cuisine.

>> About the business: Raised in Cleveland by expat Southerner grandparents, Hughley grew up cooking. He joined the Navy thinking he would get away from cooking, but that wound up being his job aboard submarines, with Culinary Institute of America training along the way. After 26-1/2 years, while stationed in Hawaii, he and his wife, Sharon, made the decision to retire.

Hughley intended to run a catering business from a commercial kitchen that other companies could rent as well, but a lease deal didn’t work out. He prayed hard, and found and secured 2,200 square feet at Aiea Town Square — a former Quiznos, and an adjoining space for the dining room. In 2013 Hughley’s opened as Ken Nae’s restaurant. The name was a partial homage to his mother, but the restaurant was renamed Hughley’s Southern Cuisine for pronunciation’s sake a couple of months later. (It’s pronounced with a hard g: “hyoog-leez,” not “hyoo-leez.”)

Hughley also has two food trucks that serve a modified menu weekdays at lunchtime at the Pearl Harbor Naval Shipyard. They also can be found at community events such as the recent Pan-Pacific Festival, where the dishes were so popular, more food had to be prepared and delivered to Waikiki during the event, Hughley said.

His Hawaii Military Catering business offers cuisines beyond Southern fare, and his customer base spreads beyond military clientele.

>> About the food: Hughley estimates that 90 percent of his recipes are traditional. Some were adjusted to meet customers’ dietary needs and preferences — collard greens, for example, are not prepared with pork fat, and with the exception of gravy, other side dishes are vegetarian. Fried catfish and tilapia can be prepared with gluten-free breading.

Full-size entrees with two sides and cornbread range from $15.50 to $27.50. Choices include fried chicken wings or thighs (or a combo), grilled chicken breast, a chicken mixed plate, pork spareribs, beef brisket, pork chops (fried or smothered), catfish, tilapia and oxtails. Combo plates offer two entrees, two sides and cornbread for $16.50, while miniplates include an entree, a side, cornbread and a drink for $11.

Specialty plates are hot wings ($12.99), shrimp and grits ($18.50) or chicken and waffles with either syrup or country gravy ($16.50); sandwiches are $12.99; salads are $3 to $15.99. Hughley’s also serves angel eggs (six for $6, 12 for $10). Most people call them deviled eggs, but as a Christian, Hughley said, he was not about to put that name on his menu.

If there’s still room, desserts include sweet potato pie, banana pudding and peach dumplings.

>> What to order: Top sellers are the chicken and catfish combo, smothered pork chops and the ribs and brisket, Hughley said.

Given 15 side-dish options, decision-making might be a challenge. Choose from among black-eyed peas, green beans, collard greens, candied yams, coleslaw, baked beans, potato salad, fries, fried okra, hush puppies, red beans and rice, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes with gravy, grits and, because it’s a local restaurant, steamed rice. Just to mention two: The mac and cheese is richly cheesy and luxurious in a home-style way, and the fried okra was still crisp and delicious even after sitting through a two-hour photo shoot.

Portions are generous, but if you want more, a la carte side-dish servings are $3.75, or $7 for large. Extra cornbread is 99 cents. If you’re dining in, like 60 percent of Hughley’s customers, you can BYOB with no corkage fee.

>> Grab and go: For takeout, especially at peak times, you can call ahead. Starting a half-hour before closing, all orders are served in takeout containers. Plentiful parking in the lot.

Grab and Go focuses on takeout food, convenience meals and other quick bites. Email ideas to crave@staradvertiser.com.