Premium Pick | NANZAN GIRO GIRO

In everyday life, meals are about convenience, expediency, value and comfort. They occupy slots in the daily grind of those 24 hours. But at Nanzan Giro Giro, a meal is all-consuming (no pun intended), almost to the point that time stands still — except for the progression of dishes that come out of the kitchen, run by chef Yoshihiro Matsumoto and his efficient crew.

At Nanzan, the focus is seasonal Kyoto cuisine, presented in a six-course set menu that changes monthly. All food is served on functional art pieces, much of it made by Kyoto ceramist Nanzan Ito, one of the restaurant owners. Just like the food, the dishware reflects the seasons.

It is because there is so much to take in — from the deliciousness of the food to its presentation on beautiful dishware to even watching Matsumoto slicing duck breast in one graceful stroke (diners are literally seated around a kitchen located in the center of the restaurant) — that the meal becomes a riveting event.

Consider the starter dish on September’s menu: uni (sea urchin) and seared salmon served atop a green edamame sauce that blankets shimeji mushroom, spinach and shiso. The colorful ensemble was served in a beautiful green ceramic cup painted inside with flowers. Every dish was a feast for the eyes as well as artistry for the palate.

The restaurant has developed a following of regulars who return each month to experience Matsumoto’s latest ensemble. No doubt they are aficionados not just of fine food, but art and culture as well.

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560 Pensacola St. (at Hopaka Street); 524-0141. Dinner (closed Tuesdays, Wednesdays). $$$

Ohana Inn

Waipahu’s had a few sit-down Korean restaurants through the years, and most have delivered serviceable renditions of local favorites — you know, meat jun, kalbi and barbecue chicken plates with side mandoo. But Ohana Inn is a definite cut above the rest.

Besides those mainstays of Korean takeout are stone-pot and pan-fried dishes, soups and stews, all cooked fresh and served in a bright, tidy setting by attentive staff. Meals begin with an array of banchan, cold appetizers that whet the appetite. One notable offering is an umami cabbage kim chee flavored up with fish sauce.

Follow those with an order of bibimbap (beef, vegetables and raw egg artfully assembled on a bed of rice) served in a scorching stone pot, which crisps up the rice and cooks the egg. A customer favorite is the garlic bibimbap; there’s also a seafood version. Hearty mandoo, pan-fried rice cake or Korean pancakes are dishes the entire table can share.

But it is in tasty soups and stews that Ohana Inn really shines. Soft tofu pairs with seafood, meats, mushroom or kim chee for satisfying, spicy red “soon dubu” options. For those who seek mellower fare, an array of clear soups includes the restorative Samkaetang, a whole chicken cooked with ginseng. The biggest flavor bomb of the bunch is the Mak Jang Chi-Ke, an addictive stew made with aged Korean miso and chock full of beef, tofu and vegetables.

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94-210 Leokane St.; 671-3311. Lunch, dinner. $-$$

Maui Mike’s

Maui Mike’s is like a person everyone loves. Or rather, the fire-roasted chicken, juicy, flavorful and served fresh off the rotisserie, is like that.

Lines at the restaurant’s Wahiawa location (there is another in Kailua) drive home the point. The tiny venue sits at the corner of a block with few parking options, yet the line usually takes over the space and spills out the door. It’s obvious why: Maui Mike’s starts with a great product — fresh chickens fed natural diets and raised uncaged. I’ve often stood by the counter watching expert staff break down those piping-hot chickens in seconds.

Many regulars go for the shredded-chicken sandwiches, such as Mike’s Melt, a spicy offering topped with cheddar, bacon and a trio of sauces. Best of all, though, at least in my book, is the roast chicken served simply with a side and some sauce. Get a quarter or half of those in plates, or take home a feast, whole chickens with numerous sides and sauces. Sides include fries, rice, baked beans, corn, cole slaw and green beans. Sauces range from honey mustard and ranch to various barbecue and spicy options.

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96 S. Kamehameha Highway, Wahiawa; 622-5900. Enchanted Lake Center, 1020 Keolu Drive, Kailua; 261-5900. Lunch, dinner. $-$$