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A longtime friend recently contacted me to say he would be vacationing on Maui and wanted to come to Honolulu to have lunch. It turned out to be a special afternoon as we reminisced about the old days when I was cellarmaster at what was then the Kahala Hilton Hotel.
He shared some iconic (and pricey) wines that he had brought along. I was floored by the grandeur and nobility of those wines and marveled at their seamlessness, trans- parency and balance.
Their qualities showcased what the French refer to as “terroir”: the synergy created by the vine, grown in unique soils and greatly affected by the site’s environment. Stylistically governed by man both in the vineyard and the winery, each wine proved memorable in its own way.
Based on that experience, I was inspired to find some captivating wines that showcase terroir and can be had at an affordable price.
Here are four, produced from the chardonnay grape, that are worth seeking out. I would also add that all of these wines are produced by small projects owned and operated by families, and all overdeliver in quality in a big way for the dollar spent.
>> 2015 Henri Perrusset Macon-Villages (about $20 a bottle): Yes, this is chardonnay, grown in the southern part of Burgundy, France, and its unique limestone-based soils. Father and son tend their vineyards with loving care and produce something that stands out in what is otherwise a sea of neutrality. This has to be one of the favorite white country-styled wines in my house because of how tasty, mineral-driven and fresh it is. What a great discovery this has been for us!
>> 2014 Jean-Marc Vincent Montagny Premier Cru (about $32): Montagny is another wine village in Burgundy, a bit further north than the Macon, that also specializes in chardonnay.
Husband and wife Jean Marc and Anne- Marie have created one of the rising stars of Burgundy through their arduous work, both in the vineyard and the winery. Their wines offer refinement and elegance while showcasing the minerality, pedigree and “voice” of what this premier cru site and its unique limestone-based soils wants to say.
>> 2014 Olivier Savary Chablis (about $27): Chablis is the northernmost wine-growing appellation of Burgundy. The best sites feature nearly pure limestone, which, when coupled with extremely cool growing conditions, result in a highly unique interpretation of what chardonnay can be. In this case, the wines are mesmerizing for their riveting purity, mineral-driven ethereal quality, remarkable lightness and refinement.
Savary also produces an old-vine bottling labeled as Chablis “Vieilles Vignes” (about $38). It is worth the extra $11 in price if you can find it.
>> Veuve Fourny Blanc de Blancs (about $50): This offering is produced from pure chardonnay grown in the Champagne area of France. The winemakers in this locale, however, choose to produce their chardonnay-based wines with bubbles. Imagine that. This family has been growing and making this version since 1856, and it is one I look for on a regular basis.
This quartet of wines shows what a grape like chardonnay can be, based upon the soils the vines grow in, their individual microclimates and the skills of artisan winemakers.
Discovering all that is part of the fun and intrigue of enjoying wine that my friend has opened my eyes to over the years. Thank you, John.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.
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