I really like Breville’s Smoking Gun, which infuses smoky flavor into cooked and uncooked food.

It’s against the rules to grill on my apartment balcony, but I do enjoy the flavor barbecuing produces. With the smoking gun I can cook meat in the microwave and then infuse it with smoke in less time than it would take on a grill. It’s also great for drinks, turning a glass of whiskey into what my brother said was a smooth drink with a maple flavor (somehow derived from the hickory chips we used).

I also smoked a slice of pizza, cheese, anything I could get my hands on, because it was interesting to see how the flavors changed. I didn’t think of smoking water to make ice or smoking ice cream, ideas I came across later, but now I want to try those things, too.

The gadget is fun to use, once you get the hang of it.

>> How it works: A mesh filter goes into a burn chamber, which goes into the barrel of the device. A silicone hose fits into the front of the barrel, and a nozzle at the end of the hose goes into the receptacle holding your food. Make sure the unit is off before assembling these parts. Wood chips (hickory and applewood are provided) go into the burn chamber, then you turn on the fan (powered by four AA batteries) and start the chips burning with a lighter.

While the gun is easy to use, reading the instructions is a must for safety reasons alone. They also provide helpful tips and techniques, a troubleshooting section and information on the care and cleaning of this pricey gadget.

>> Does it work? Yes, but you’ll have to experiment with timing to achieve the flavor you desire.

For example, the instructions say to let the food sit in the smoke for one to three minutes, but my brother and I found that three minutes of smoking left a plate of sliced steak barely tasting of the hickory chips we were using. Another five minutes, though, and it was delicious. But a plate of cheese left sitting in smoke for about five minutes (I lost track of time) tasted burnt, my auntie said. I recommend following the instructions first and adding more smoke time if wanted.

Zip-top bags and containers covered with plastic wrap are the easiest ways to contain the smoke. Leave just enough of an opening for the nozzle and most or all of the smoke will be captured within. I’m sure there are more creative ways — perhaps putting the food in a paper drinking cup, covering it with its plastic lid and sticking the nozzle through the straw hole in the top. The nozzle doesn’t get hot so the plastic won’t melt.

Bartenders and chefs have prettier ways of serving their smoked creations, such as using a glass dome that fills with smoke and can be raised for a big reveal. I tried that with chunks of steak, but when I stuck the nozzle between the dome and the plate, a lot of smoke escaped around the nozzle, making the room very smoky. Luckily there was no smoke alarm. The instructions say to use “only in a well-ventilated area.”

>> Pros: Provides smoky flavor in a short time, easy and fun to use, compact, comes with nine recipes from drinks to dessert. Also, batteries and wood chips are included so you can start smoking as soon as you open the kit.

>> Cons: Three very tiny mesh filters are provided, but I already lost one during the first testing process. I couldn’t find a store on Oahu that carried the filter so I’ll have to resort to ordering through brevilleusa.com. They cost $1.25 each plus $5.99 shipping. There are also a variety of wood chips available on the site.

>> Cost and availability: Williams-Sonoma in Ala Moana Center expects to receive a shipment in April. If you can’t wait until then, find the device at williams- sonoma.com for $99.95. Amazon.com has three models that cost $89, $128.93 and $169.99; and brevilleusa.com has two models for $99.95 and $149.95. Shipping is free for all the companies.

>> Worth it?: For its size and what it does, $100 is totally worth it.

Got a gadget that you love? Curious about one you’d like us to test? Email crave@staradvertiser.com or write Crave, Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813.