Italian eateries poised to stir up scene

Essentially, there are two kinds of Italian restaurants on Oahu, neither involving Italians in the kitchen.

On one side of the spectrum are chefs from Japan trained in Italy, who present refined, often upscale fare. On the other side are Southeast Asian chefs schooled by Cass Castagnola 30 years ago, who have passed down to restaurateur friends and relatives a legacy of rustic buttery, garlicky pastas and boldly flavored meat and fish dishes.

Occasionally we may see an outlier from the New York school of Italian, heavy on the marinara and meatball- obsessed.

Now at Velocity comes a game changer, two contemporary Italian concepts by Rome-born Maurizio Roberti, with Italians at the helm.

First to open is the casual Italica Bar & Cafe, focused on Rome’s street fare and a nice fit for this setting, home to luxury automobile dealerships for Lamborghini, Maserati, Ducati motorcycles and more.

Velocity is unique in bringing several lifestyle concepts and brands under one roof as an expression of discernment. When stopping for lunch, for instance, you might want to make an appointment to have your lashes done at Kristin Wood Lashes, or visit Sixty-One for a barbershop/retail experience.

A summer opening is expected for a yet-unnamed gourmet restaurant with Michelin-starred chef Gianpaolo Raschi set to create tasting menus in an intimate dining room of tentatively 25 seats.

If Italica is any indication, we are in for a treat this summer.

Roberti’s inspiration for the restaurant was the city founded by Romans in Seville, Spain, in 206 B.C. “The Italians who went to Spain wanted to feel as comfortable as if they were at home,” he said. In that spirit, he created Italica to be “basic, eco-friendly and relaxed.”

“I don’t want it to be oshare,” said Roberti, who spent much of his professional life in Japan, using the Japanese word for “fancy” or “ostentatious.”

“That will be upstairs,” he said.

Because of the state of fast coffee shop fare here — full of soggy sandwiches and reheated foods — I was initially disappointed when I stepped into the venue, looking at salads, panini, pizza slices and desserts under glass. “Ugh, same old,” I thought.

Nothing could be further from reality. The food under glass offers a visual sampling of what’s available. Once you’ve placed your order, the food is prepared. What arrives is fresh and delicious, and the real deal.

That said, this place is not for everyone. Those who favor the local style of Italian will find the flavors of Rome too light.

Roberti is aware of the disconnect among diners whose only experience of Italian cuisine is what they’ve had in Hawaii.

“When people ask for tartar sauce and chili sauce, I say no. If you’re not getting it in Italy, you’re not getting it here.”

The menu is the same day and night, but more elaborate dinner fare is in the works. For now, start with light, crisp calamari fritti ($12), a popular street food served in paper cones in Italy, and presented here with a wedge of roasted lemon in a small takeout box lined with brown paper.

Other handheld treats are a potato croquette served with black truffle sauce ($7.50), and Suppli al Relefono (On the Phone), a rice croquette with a center of oozy mozzarella ($8 for two pieces). It is so named because of the string of cheese that connects the pieces when you split one croquette in half.

Lasagna ($7.50) with Bolgonese and bechamel sauces is served in a cup, a sure recipe for accusations of small portion sizes. Generally, sizes are more on par with European than Hawaii sensibilities, but the prices are more than fair for the quality received.

The all-American super-sized food mentality will also shade one’s perception of the pizza here. The Roman-style slab pizzas result in four approximately 3-1/2-inch square slices. That is the size of a typical personal pizza here. But if you take the time to savor each delicious bite, along with a shared salad and appetizer, it can be enjoyed by two to four. Choose from a classic Margherita ($6) with tomato, basil and buffalo mozzarella, or the Gourmet ($7.50), with ingredients that change daily. I especially loved the light and crisp focaccia crust.

There’s no question of value with the sandwiches, more than a foot long at $7 to $10. The most popular is the Salumi Misti e Pepperoni ($10) comprising layers of mixed cold cuts and marinated bell peppers. Other sandwiches feature grilled housemade sausage and spicy watercress ($10), salmon and avocado ($9.50), or prosciutto with tomato and mozzarella ($9.50). My favorite is the Parmigiana ($8) of warm grilled eggplant topped with tomato, basil and mozzarella.

The only dish I found disappointing was the Polipo ($12), a cold salad of confit octopus with diced russets, rosemary and lemon zest. There was nothing bad about it, but I thought the octopus and potatoes would taste better warm.

Desserts of tiramisu ($6) and panna cotta ($4.50) made to go were just OK. You’re better off getting a cocktail, your favorite liqueur or Illy coffee.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.