Appetito Craft Pizza & Wine Bar brings Naples to Waikiki

Appetito Craft Pizza & Wine Bar is a new establishment at the Outrigger Ohana East Hotel, replacing Keoni by Keo’s. Opened just last fall, it has a style that is consistent with much of the rest of recent development in Waikiki — a touch more class and elegance, but still with a relaxed atmosphere suitable for both an international and local crowd. The affordable happy hour prices might be a special attraction for locals.

THE EXPERIENCE

The Outrigger Ohana East is located at the intersection of Kuhio and Kaiulani Avenues. It’s an especially busy area because both are wide streets with multiple lanes. Fortunately, there is a small triangle park across the street from the hotel, which splits the traffic somewhat. So although there are only a few outdoor tables at Appetito’s, they have a nice outdoor ambience.

The bulk of the seating is indoors, which has a cool, somewhat European feel with dark, Danish-modern style furniture and wood accents. There are a few flat screens for sports fans, but not enough to put it in the sports bar category. Even if some raucous fans gather in front of one or two, there’s some seating that is sectioned off from the main bar, creating a degree of privacy.

Appetito’s specialty is its handcrafted pizza, and the pizza oven is one of the main attractions. With small shiny tiles covering it, it’s got to be one of the few pizza ovens in the islands that looks like a disco ball. Stacks of kiawe wood nearby informs you where the pizzas’ subtle flavor comes from.

THE FOOD

Appetito’s Chef de Cuisine Naomi Ito has been working with Executive Chef Hiroyuki Mimura, who also heads up nearby Taormina Sicilian Cuisine, to develop the menu. Significantly, Mimura worked in fine restaurants in Italy, winning several awards there, and influenced Appetito to include its European sensibility.

The pizza at Appetito are authentic, Neapolitan-style pies. The required “00” flour, San Marzano tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, and many of the toppings are all imported from Italy. That disco-ball oven cooks it all at inferno-like temperatures, producing a fine, flaky crust on the outer rim, while the center area with the sauce, cheese and toppings remains soft and chewy.

I tried the basic Margherita Pizza ($9, regular $15), which has Grana Padano cheese in addition to the mozzarella. It was excellent, but be forewarned: Don’t order this before your friends arrive and don’t order it and then go to the restroom. It only takes about a minute to cook Neapolitan-style pizza, and it needs to be eaten immediately, otherwise the tomato sauce makes the crust soggy.

I also ate the Spicy Meatballs ($7, regular $12), referred to as “Naomi’s” after Ito. The meatballs too were excellent, with just a bit of spiciness in the meat, which then got enhanced considerably by the accompanying green curry sauce.

The Crispy Fried Chicken is also discounted for happy hour, at $9. Prepared with cayenne and Grana Padana cheese, it was as advertised. I think it would be better to order it off the regular menu $14, where it comes with pecorino cream sauce for dipping, fondue style.

THE DRINK

Beverages during Appetito’s happy hour come in a nice variety and at an affordable $4 to $7 price range. Beers range from $4 for Sapporo Lager and Peroni to $7 for Rogue Hazelnut Brown Ale or Maui Brewing Co.’s Pineapple Wheat.

There’s a classy selection of wines offered at $5 a glass. One is American, Chalk Hill Chardonnay from Sonoma County, Calif.; otherwise it’s an international bill, with wines from Portugal, Spain, New Zealand, Italy, France, Chile and Australia. What’s especially nice is the Wine Flight, where you can choose any three wines at $15, with charcuterie included.

Cocktails range from $5 for a Strawberry Daiquiri, which was thick in texture and luscious in flavor with strawberry puree and hibiscus syrup. In contrast, the White Sangria ($7) was light and refreshing, suitable for a steamy afternoon.

THE VERDICT

Appetito is certainly worth a pau hana visit or two. There are three kinds of pizza offered at happy hour, and each would be worth a try just to get that authentic Neapolitan flair. There’s enough variety in the other dishes, categorized as “Bites” and “Extra Bites,” to fill out the rest of your snack or make a nice early meal, and a good selection of beverages to wash it all down.