The scariest thing served in my old school cafeteria was carrot salad — orange shreds studded with raisins that looked like they were floating in milk. The image still gives me the jeebies.

My mature eating self realizes that the cafeteria manager had the best of nutritional intentions, and also that a carrot salad can be a lovely thing.

This all came to mind when Ethel Hanzawa called in search of a version like one she’d tried on a buffet line in Waikiki, “years back, over 20, I think.” She remembered it had raisins, and it was creamy, with a pineapple flavor. “I don’t like carrots as a whole,” she said, “but I fell in love with this salad.”

Hanzawa can’t remember the restaurant, so that was the end of the clues. My goal, then, became simply to find a good formula for this classic dish.

Recipes are easy to find, as carrot salads have been carried to potlucks for generations. Carrots being hardy, like cabbage, these salads are similar to a coleslaw, with a creamy mayonnaise-based dressing. Almost all have raisins, although pineapple is a popular add-in.

The shredded carrot salad is also big in French cuisine, although usually dressed simply with a vinaigrette or a squeeze of citrus (no raisins). I’ve come across references that call the carrot salad one of the national dishes of France.

I consulted Keoni Chang, corporate chef at Foodland, who has a citrusy carrot salad on the salad bar at Foodland Farms in Ala Moana.

Chang said a carrot salad offers intriguing possibilities, as it can be adapted to pair with whatever else you’re serving. Southeast Asian? Add mint, cilantro, lime juice, fish sauce. Teriyaki? Use ginger and soy sauce. Curry? Add curry spice and some chilies.

My recipe follows, but consider it a starting point. If you like nuts, add some; if you want it creamier, add more mayo. Don’t like chunks of fruit? Leave them out.

For contrast, Chang provided the recipe for the Foodland salad.

Ready, set, shred.

SHREDDED CARROT AND PINEAPPLE SALAD

By Chef Keoni Chang

• 3 cups shredded carrots
• 1/4 cup raisins or dried cranberries
• 1/2 cup diced fresh pineapple
• 1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

>> Dressing:

• 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup pineapple juice
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Combine carrots, cranberries and pineapple in serving bowl.

Whisk dressing ingredients together until smooth. Pour over salad and toss. Sprinkle with salt and taste. Add more of any dressing ingredient until it tastes right to you. Serves 6 as a side dish.

>> Variations: Substitute plain yogurt or sour cream for some or all of the mayonnaise. Add 1/2 cup chopped nuts.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt to taste): 80 calories, 3.5 g total fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 150 mg sodium, 12 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 8 g sugar, 1 g protein.

FOODLAND SUNRISE CARROT SALAD

By Chef Keoni Chang

• 6 carrots, peeled and shredded or grated
• 1/4 cup dried cranberries
• 2 tablespoons toasted sweetened coconut flakes
• 1/4 cup toasted chopped macadamia nuts
• Salt and pepper, to taste

>> Dressing:

• 1/4 cup guava juice
• 1/4 cup orange juice
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon dried cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

Whisk together dressing ingredients. Combine with salad ingredients; toss to incorporate. Serves 6-8 as a side dish.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt to taste): 110 calories, 5 g total fat, 1 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 55 mg sodium, 17 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 11 g sugar, 1 g protein.

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