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There’s another kind of finger-lickin’ KFC, not the traditional southern style of Colonel Sanders fame, but Korean fried chicken that’s giving the ubiquitous Kentucky franchise some crisp competition.
Customers of Vons Chicken consistently rave in Yelp posts over the shatteringly crisp crust and the moist, tender wings and pieces — “winner, winner, chicken dinner,” “amazing” and “best” are the common superlatives.
Vons is a bit pricier than the colonel, and involves a 10-minute wait, as every order is fried or roasted fresh. But devotees say it’s worth it.
THE BUSINESS
Husband and wife Jai and Mei Park opened the first Vons franchise on Oahu about five years ago in the Palama Supermarket food court in Kalihi, but a year later moved that flagship store to Pensacola Street, where they could expand their hours. Mei Park is usually at the counter at this location, where the phrase “The real KFC: Korean Fried Chicken” is displayed on the front window.
A Waimalu Shopping Center branch opened two years ago and is run by cousin Hanalel Chang; a stall in Shirokiya Japan Village Walk opened in August, said Jai Park, who also owns a Subway sandwich shop next door to Vons on Pensacola. Another Vons Chicken at the Palama Supermarket on Makaloa Street has a different owner.
The Korean franchise, which started in its home country with chicken and beer cafes, has locations in at least a dozen cities from Vietnam to Australia. In the U.S. it took hold in Sunnyvale, Calif., in 2014, and quickly expanded throughout the state.
THE FOOD
The chicken is coated in a light batter, which doesn’t soak up a lot of oil, and it stays crispy all over, not just on the edges. The most popular item at Pensacola is the shoyu chicken (with a sweet teriyaki sauce); at Waimalu it’s the garlic; and at Shirokiya, the honey butter flavor and the Snow Wings, flavored with cheese and onion, are winning fans so far.
Vons also offers oven-roasted chicken, which is succulent and tasty even without that beloved fried crunch. But apparently it is too healthy for the majority of customers, as few order it, Jai said.
Sauces and other ingredients are imported from Korea, except for the chicken, which comes from a Hawaii distributor. The flavors are not marinated into the meat, but added after frying; for example, the shoyu and garlic flavors come from sauces used as coatings; the Snow Wing sauce is a cheese and onion powder, Mei Park said. Another flavor, “seasoned” chicken, is a name for what is really a tomato-based Korean barbecue sauce, in mild or spicy.
HOW TO ORDER
The chicken can be ordered in all wings or boneless pieces, in half or full orders (a full order of wings has 20 pieces). The basic, unadorned crispy chicken is $12.49 for a half order; $22.99 for a full. Seasoned, shoyu, garlic, Snow Wing or honey butter flavors are a dollar more per half or full order. The roast chicken pieces are $13.99 for a half order; $24.99 full, but only come in plain, garlic and seasoned.
The chicken plate can be ordered with all wings or all boneless pieces for $8.99, accompanied by rice, two pieces of mandoo and macaroni salad.
Order at the counter, or better, call ahead and pick up when it’s ready, especially at the Pensacola site, where parking is limited to metered stalls on the street. Parking at the other locations, in shopping centers, is generally easier to find.
VONS CHICKEN
vonschicken.com
>> 1102 Pensacola St., 800-3955
>> Waimalu Shopping Center, 98-020 Kamehameha Highway, 367-1384
>> Shirokiya Japan Village Walk, Ala Moana Center
>> Palama Supermarket, 1670 Makaloa St., 447-7700
Grab and Go focuses on takeout food, convenience meals and other quick bites. Email ideas to crave@staradvertiser.com.
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