Kula, Maui >> Located on the slopes of Haleakala at the 3,500-foot elevation, Kulahaven Farms boasts bicoastal views, crisp mountain air and a basketball legend landowner who keeps the farm in center court with his support.

Rainbow trout thrive here in freshwater tanks, in a symbiotic relationship with certified-organic, baby watercress that grows below in a brilliant green valley of raised beds.

“Aquaponics is a highly efficient method of farming that combines the best aspects of aquaculture and hydroponics,” explained John Dobovan, Kulahaven’s founder and president, and also Haleakala chapter president of Hawaii Farmers United. “It allows us to produce two crops with a single input while minimizing water use and environmental impact.”

Kulahaven Farms broke ground in 2016 and sold its first crops in May of 2018. The farm produces 800 pounds of watercress a month and 400 pounds of trout — with the capacity to triple production of both.

It offers subscription plans for monthly orders of smoked trout, fresh watercress and a new dehydrated watercress powder — created at the Maui Food Innovation Center at the University of Hawaii’s Maui College — that can be used in drinks, dressings and pestos.

Dobovan’s focus is on farming and sustainability.

“Like many people, I love oceanic fish, but I fear that we are loving them to death,” Dobovan said. “Wild fish populations are under extreme stress. There are no other wild species that are commercially hunted for human food on this scale and it is simply unsustainable. We need careful management of oceanic species and we need to find better ways to supplement our hunger for fish.”

Kulahaven’s water is tested to be pathogen-free by a science officer who lives on the property. Fish waste in the water is converted to plant food through natural bioconversion, and when the water is piped to the watercress, the plants drink up all those nutrients, leaving pure water that is piped back to the trout tanks.

“It’s extremely efficient and, in our case, certified organic,” Dobovan said. “Our water is triple-filtered, and our crop is grown with no pesticides, herbicides or additives. Our fish are raised without supplements or antibiotics.”

Dobovan hatches the fish from eggs. Most of his current stock is still maturing, so he is now supplying only two Maui restaurants: Mama’s Fish House in Kuau and Lineage at The Shops at Wailea.

“Kulahaven’s Rainbow trout is fresh, delicious and sustainable,” said Perry Bateman, executive chef at Mama’s. “ We can do crispy whole trout with mango black-bean sauce and Upcountry vegetables, or better yet, with our fresh poi and Hawaiian chili water. Either way, it’s terrific.”

Dobovan credits a large part his success to his landlord, Don “Nellie” Nelson, a former NBA basketball star and coach.

“Nellie’s been my patron saint,” said Dobovan, who honors Nelson with a sign on the property bearing his retired Boston Celtics number, 19. “I spent six months back in 2016 looking for a farm lease on Maui. I met Nellie and the next day, we did a handshake deal.”

The NBA Hall of Famer also played for the Los Angeles Lakers and coached four NBA teams, most notably the Golden State Warriors. He first visited Maui in the 1960s with Boston Celtics’ owner Marvin Kratter.

“He brought the whole team over,” Nelson reminisced. The island was so beautiful and I thought, ‘Someday … I’m going to buy a place and live there.’ ”

He’s done that, and has made investments here: He is a silent partner in at least one Maui restaurant, and owns Sugar Beach Events, a wedding venue in Kihei. He “appeared on CNN and HBO’s “Real Sports With Bryant Gumbel” this summer talking about a house he built using hemp, as well as his other Kula farming interest: medicinal marijuana.

“I didn’t smoke when I was a player or a coach,” explained the 79-year-old, as he sat puffing a real cigar on his expansive lanai Upcountry. “I have a medicinal card and can grow it legally. It’s a strain of Hindu Kush called Nellie Kush. I’ve also just signed a deal with a CBD company to create Nellie Nuggets.”

KULAHAVEN IS located on Nelson’s scenic mountainous acreage, which also has 1,600 olive trees producing oil and boasts magnificent groves of 400 native koa and jacarandas.

The property was once a forest of black wattle trees, a hardwood popular in Australia for barbecuing and smoking meats, but an invasive species here. The wood is put to use to smoke Kulahaven’s trout.

“As far as the trout and watercress production, I think it’s a wonderful idea,” Nelson said. “When my kids were visiting, we got 10 of his trout and pan-fried them, and it was really good.”

AT LINEAGE, Executive Chef Robert Ramshur smokes the trout himself with guava wood.

“For our tasting menus, we’ve guava-smoked trout for chawanmushi, or Japanese savory egg custard, and served it with papaya seed and miso vinaigrette,” said Ramshur. “We also make a cone sushi out of it.”

Lineage owner Sheldon Simeon, a “Top Chef” fan favorite and finalist, recently showcased Kulahaven Farms products at the Los Angeles Food & Wine festival. Simeon served salted beef, Kulahaven watercress, pohole-fern shoots and bagaoon — a Filipino fish sauce made at Lineage with Kula trout head and bones, put in jars and left in the sun.

“I love the aquaponic symbolism,” Simeon said. “How plants and fish can help each other can also be applied in how our communities can develop positive long-term relationships in mutually beneficial give-and-take agreements to each others’ needs.”

In addition, both trout and watercress are healthful to the max. The fish is high in protein and beneficial omega-3 fatty acids, Dobovan said, and “watercress is a true super food” (packed with vitamins A, C, E and K; and magnesium, calcium and potassium, according to the USDA).

“John’s smoked trout is addicting and his fresh grown watercress is great,” said Mama’s Chef Bateman. “His dehydrated watercress powder is also green gold … it has endless possibilities of recipes.”

WHERE TO BUY

>> On Maui: For a $500 annual fee, receive a monthly order of trout, watercress and/or dehydrated powdered watercress in various combinations.

>> On Oahu: Fresh watercress is coming soon to Times supermarkets; 1-ounce bags of watercress powder can be ordered for $12 plus shipping.

>> Info: Call 808-955-0955, email jd@kulahavenfarms.com or visit kulahavenfarms.com.