If not for two Hawaii stores, the name Dean & Deluca would be at risk of disappearing from the American landscape.

Across the country, Dean & Deluca stores began closing in early summer, although the upscale food specialty chain is still a presence in Asia and the Middle East. Temporary closure of its last flagship SoHo store was reported Monday, although its shelves had been empty for months.

But under licensee Dean & Deluca Hawaii, two Waikiki stores are thriving and a third is planned, to open at Ko‘ula Residence at Ward Village in 2022. On Thursday, the company marked the grand reopening of its renovated store in the Ritz-Carlton Residences in Waikiki.

Yohei Takahashi, president of the local licensee, said the Hawaii stores succeed because of their focus on regional cuisine, and products and services that suit contemporary lifestyles.

In his remarks during the grand reopening, Takahashi said the Ritz-Carlton store, which opened in 2016, struggled under its previous ownership.

“I think when they opened, they brought a New York style, but I decided to showcase Hawaii style,” he said.

When he took over — a few months after opening his company’s first store in the Royal Hawaiian Center in November 2017 — he turned the focus to local artisanal products, as well as freshly made grab-and-go gourmet salads and sandwiches easily carried to the beach, hotel room or workplace.

“I didn’t know if it would work, but luckily it did.”

The Ritz-Carlton shop now includes the second- floor Artisan Loft, a 24-seat wine bar offering brunch, a “lounge menu” and happy hour selections daily. Rebecca Sinn is the sommelier and events manager.

Artisan is also where executive chef Kevin Carvalho said he draws on his background as a hunter and fisherman to bring such items as opihi, uni, hoio ferns and other local ingredients. “Usually I’ll go out a couple times a week and fish for menpachi, ahi and marlin, go diving for tako. That’s part of my job. I catch my own fish for bouillabaisse. Sometimes I’ll fish all night.”

With his hunter’s mantra of no waste, Carvalho finds ways to use every part of each fish, and will be offering a head-to-tail dinner every other month.

The original Dean & DeLuca was founded in 1976 in New York, building a market for what at the time were luxury food items, such as balsamic vinegar and sun-dried tomatoes. The company has struggled against competitors such as Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe’s, and in 2014 was sold to Pace Development.

The Ritz-Carlton store is open 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call 729-9720.

COMING SUNDAY: OUR GUIDE TO OAHU’S TOP RESTAURANTS

So many restaurants, so little time (and money). If you need help locating your next great meal, if you need an overview of what’s new and tasty on Oahu … you need the Sunday newspaper.

The Honolulu Star-Advertiser’s ‘Ilima Awards edition — our annual guide to the island’s top restaurants — arrives Sunday.

In it our food writers select the No. 1 restaurant of the year, and the best places to eat in numerous categories. Newspaper readers also make their opinions known, in the People’s Choice categories.

The ‘Ilima Awards are issued in partnership with Diamond Head Theatre, which will honor the winners in a gala on Monday. Tickets: diamondheadtheatre.com.

— Star-Advertiser Staff