Michael Nobriga is well-known for his family’s delicious Roselani Ice Cream, which is sold in supermarkets across Hawaii. But his friends and family know him better for his killer Cowboy Stew.
The chairman of Maui Soda & Ice Ltd., which makes Roselani, learned this recipe from his late father David “Buddy” Nobriga, a noted businessman and cattle rancher who was inducted into the Paniolo Hall of Fame in 2001. (Maui Soda was founded in 1884, and the Nobriga family has owned the company since 1946.)
Over the years, he made a few adaptations to the original recipe. The surprising ingredient that you simply cannot omit is two to three beef shanks with their indispensable bones.
“The marrow from the shank bones melts into the broth and flavors it and thickens it,” Nobriga insists.
He cuts off the shank meat and browns the bones first, then adds the shank meat with the usual chunks of chuck roast. “Chuck meat is an inexpensive cut,” he says.
His father would add instant mashed potatoes as a thickener, but Nobriga says he omits that and the stew turns out great. “All you need to do is cook it low and slow,” he says.
Nobriga is particular about his recipe, stating that more garlic is always better. For flavor, he adds soy sauce (Kikkoman is his preferred brand), Hawaiian alaea salt and ground allspice.
His hearty recipe calls for Kula onions, garlic, potatoes and carrots in addition to canned tomatoes. He also suggests adding celery, green beans or kabocha if you want additional substance and nutrition. And the stew gets its kick from Hawaiian chili peppers.
“Each day the stew gets better tasting, so make it ahead of time,” Nobriga advises.
Also, he says it is useful to cook the stew at least one day in advance and refrigerate it so you can easily skim off the fat.
“It is great for a cold winter meal to eat with Portuguese white rolls, rice or sour poi — make sure it’s a least a 3-day-old poi,” Nobriga says.
The recipe makes enough for about 10 to 12 people, or “two huge eaters,” he jokes.
When asked if he can also share the recipe for Roselani Macadamia Nut Ice Cream, he declined.
“Sorry, can’t give out that recipe,” Nobriga said.
Mike’s Cowboy Stew
2-3 beef shanks with bones, cut meat into 1-1/2-inch cubes
1 pound stew beef cut and trimmed to 1-1/2-inch cubes
2 teaspoons vegetable or olive oil
8 ounces (1 stick) butter
1 clove or more garlic, peeled and crushed
1 teaspoon Hawaiian alaea salt to taste
2-3 Hawaiian chili peppers (or substitute 1 teaspoon black pepper)
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon ground allspice
2 8-ounce cans diced tomato
2 14.5-ounce cans tomato sauce
Water to cover
2 carrots washed, not peeled, cut in 1-1/2-inch segments
3 Kula onions, peeled and quartered
6 potatoes washed, not peeled, cut in 1-1/2-inch cubes
Optional vegetables:
3 stalks of celery, washed and cut in 2-inch segments
12 green string beans, cut in 2-inch segments
1 medium-sized butternut or kabocha squash, not peeled, just wash and cut up into 1-1/2- inch cubes
Heat a large pot on the stove on medium high. Add oil, butter, garlic and bones from shank meat. When bones are browned on both sides, add cubes of shank and stew meat. Add salt, chili pepper and allspice.
When the beef is cooked on all sides, add flour to soak up the juices and make a roux for thickening. Then add Worcestershire sauce and soy sauce. Add diced tomatoes, tomato sauce and enough water to cover meat.
Bring to boil, then reduce heat to simmer for 1 hour. Add carrots, onions and any optional vegetables. Cover and simmer 15 to 20 minutes.
Add potatoes and simmer for 5 minutes and turn off the stove. Cover.
Stew will continue to cook on remnant heat. After 30 minutes, test meat and potatoes for doneness. Simmer longer if needed. Serves about 10 people and tastes better the second day!
Lynette Lo Tom offers recipes for the Maui home cook. She is the author of “A Chinese Kitchen” and “Back in the Day” cookbooks. Send your ideas to lynette@brightlightcookery.com or call 275-3004.
