By Request: Warm, comfort soups offer hangover relief
On this day following a global night of indulgence, here are a few words about hangovers.
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How are you feeling this morning? Maybe just a bit queasy? I’m guessing not a lot, or your priority right now wouldn’t be reading the newspaper.
Anyway, on this day following a global night of indulgence I’d like to say a few words about hangovers.
Actually, I’ll let Lauren Shockey say the few words, as she has a new book out, “Hangover Helper” (bonus points for the clever name).
South Korean haejangguk, a dish with a name that translates as “hangover soup,” was her inspiration. The country has whole restaurants devoted to these soups, specifically for people hurting from too much making merry, Shockey said in an email exchange. “Haejangguk isn’t just a single soup, but rather an entire genre of soups designed to help hangovers.”
Of such kernels of new knowledge are cookbooks made.
Shockey, a New York-based food writer, has collected recipes and post-hangover wisdom from around the world. Potential cures include something you might be able to put together right now, if you’re in need: the Irish Crisp Sandwich, buttered slices of white bread with potato chips in the middle.
Many others are heavy on protein and carbs, such as Hawaii’s loco moco, which Shockey sampled at Rainbow Drive-In while on her honeymoon. A friend had said it was one of his favorite hangover foods, she said — “You’ve got eggs for nutrients, rice for comfort and hamburger for sustenance.”
Soups and stews are also common remedies, she says. Many of those in her book are loaded with chilies and/or garlic. Some are rich and heavy, others light and refreshing, such as Albanian Tarator, a chilled cucumber soup with yogurt and just a bit of garlic.
Her haejangguk recipe is from the Jeonju region and has a base of dried anchovies. It is loaded with bean sprouts, which are rich in asparagine, an amino acid with hangover-easing properties, Shockey says. It would also be a comforting recipe to keep around for flu season.
Order “Hangover Helper” (Hardie Grant, $19.99) from online book sources such as amazon.com.
JEONJU-STYLE HANGOVER SOUP
From “Hangover Helper,” by Lauren Shockey
- 13 large dried anchovies (1/2 ounce, see note)
- 4-inch piece konbu (dried kelp)
- 4 cups water
- 6 ounces (about 1-2/3 cup) beansprouts
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 stalks green onion, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons thinly sliced Korean green chilies (substitute jalapeno or other mild pepper)
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 2 eggs
- 1 cup hot cooked rice
- >> Toppings:
- 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds, crushed
- 1/4 teaspoon chili powder
- 1 stalk green onion, thinly sliced
- 1 teaspoon crumbled nori
- 1/2 teaspoon salted shrimp (or salt to taste)
- 1/2 cup kim chee
Place anchovies, kelp and water in a large stockpot; bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and reduce heat; simmer 30 minutes.
Use a slotted spoon to remove and discard solids. Bring broth back to boil, then stir in bean sprouts, garlic, green onion, chilies and salt. Cook at a boil, covered, 5 minutes.
Lower heat to a simmer, then gently crack an egg into a ladle and lower it into stockpot. Repeat with other egg. Cover and continue cooking another 1 to 2 minutes, until egg whites firm up slightly but yolks are still runny.
Divide rice into 2 bowls. Ladle soup into each bowl, covering rice and being careful not to break egg yolk.
Add toppings, except kim chee. Serve immediately with kim chee on side. Serves 2.
>> NOTE: Small dried anchovies may be found at local Asian markets. If you find large anchovies, snap off the heads and remove the dark intestines.
Approximate nutritional information, per serving (not including salt to taste): 280 calories, 8 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 190 mg cholesterol, 1,100 mg sodium, 40 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 6 g sugar, 15 g protein.
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