Some of the most interesting food comes about when two ethnic cultures intersect. In the case of Jacky Tu, who lives in Makawao, his family’s Chinese ethnic food adapted to the flavors of Vietnam.

Tu learned this recipe for Vietnamese ribs braised in coconut water from his mother, Jenny, who hails from Quy Nhon in central Vietnam.

Tu knows his food and is definitely a connoisseur. He was a seafood distributor in New York. Then, he and brother Jimmy operated two Vietnamese restaurants in Brooklyn that are both named Bunker. Jimmy continues the operations there. The original one is in Bushwick, and the smaller one is in the DeKalb Market Hall.

Jackie moved to the islands a few years ago after meeting his fiancee, Shaynee Scott, who is from Hawaii. He was general manager of chef Ed Kenney’s three award-winning restaurants in Kaimuki on Oahu, and last year moved to Maui.

He shares his recipe for the fresh, delicious flavors of ribs braised in coconut water (suon ram man). This recipe has the trademark complexity of Vietnamese food. There is saltiness from fish sauce, sweetness from rock candy, a kick from black pepper and herbal tones from kaffir lime leaves, ginger, garlic and lemongrass stalks.

In addition, there’s richness from your choice of pork spareribs or beef ribs as the protein.

Ask the butcher to cut the meat into 1-inch pieces as you would for the more familiar sweet-and-sour sparerib recipe. Slabs of Chinese brown sugar are added for sweetness. You can find brown sticks of sugar called rock candy or slab sugar in the Asian section of grocery stores. Coconut sugar or dark brown sugar is an easy substitute. Garlic, ginger and fish sauce round out the complex flavor of the sauce.

The ribs are simmered until they are fall-off-the-bone tender.

You’ll want to make this dish a day in advance, if possible, so the congealed oil at the top can be easily removed before reheating.

“It’s a perfect dish to make for the Lunar New Year because it is a good dish to share,” says Tu.

Traditionally served with hot rice, enjoy slurping up the gravy. The new Year of the Rat started Saturday, and celebrations continue for another few weeks. Gung Hee Fat Choy!

Jacky Tu’s Ribs Braised in Coconut Water (Suon Ram Man)

4 pounds pork spareribs or beef ribs, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 teaspoon black pepper, additional for garnish

1 teaspoon salt, divided

8 cloves garlic, chopped

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 inches fresh ginger, cut into 1/4-inch slices

20 kaffir lime leaves, hand-crushed

8 lemongrass stems, crushed

1/2 cup fish sauce, Red Boat brand preferred

4 tablespoons rock candy or Chinese slab sugar (or substitute coconut sugar)

32 ounces coconut water, bottled or fresh

Thinly sliced green onions for garnish

In a large bowl, combine the ribs, pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt and chopped garlic. Set aside. In a large saucepan, heat olive oil on high heat. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt, ginger, lime leaves and lemongrass stems. Add ribs and sear in batches until brown on all sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Set aside until batches are done. Return all ribs to the large saucepan. Add fish sauce, rock candy and coconut water to cover the ribs completely. Bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer until meat is tender and falls off the bone, about 60 minutes. Remove ginger slices, lemongrass stems and lime leaves. Discard oil. Garnish with ground black pepper and sliced green onions. Serve hot with steamed rice.

Serves 4 to 5 as a main course.

Lynette Lo Tom offers recipes for the Maui home cook. She is the author of “A Chinese Kitchen” and “Back in the Day” cookbooks. Send your ideas to lynette@brightlightcookery.com or call 275-3004.