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She’s a TV celeb, having appeared as a contestant and served as culinary producer on “Top Chef” and “Top Chef Masters” and starred in “Unique Eats.” Lee Anne Wong is also a cookbook author, executive chef for Hawaiian Airlines and chef-partner at Koko Head Cafe in Kaimuki on Oahu, with plans to open a restaurant of the same name in Tokyo later this year.
Now the New York native has landed on Maui and is serving as executive chef at the historic Pioneer Inn in Lahaina. I recently enjoyed lunch at the landmark hotel with Star Noodle exec chef Abby Rodas-Ferrer and Maui AgFest coordinator and publicist Charlene Ka‘uhane and can report the global-fusion menu with a heavy Hawaii slant was approachable, tasty and varied — planets apart from the food that was previously served there.
Both Wong and Rodas- Ferrer were part of a photo shoot Ka‘uhane had arranged for the upcoming Maui Ag Fest & 4-H Livestock Fair that will be held May 30 in Wailuku.
“I’m transforming the Pioneer Inn slowly,” said Wong, who was hired in December by hotel owners the Lennon family. “I just got back from three weeks traveling to every place that Hawaiian Airlines flies; I’m still their chef. And I have a solid team at Koko Head Cafe. I’m currently here on Maui and am working on a concept for Pioneer Inn. My goal is to take this historic landmark location and bring it back to make it popular again. I want to get the locals in here.”
The menu is similar to Koko Head Cafe’s lineup — with a Maui twist. We devoured clams and lup cheong sausage in white wine and spices; buttermilk fried oysters; kanpachi collar; house kim chee and pickles; luau dip with taro chips; crisp tofu with chili oil; the Westside Caesar with organic kale and Romaine lettuce; fried pork dumplings; sticky adobo chicken wings and char siu pork ramen, topping it all off with Snake River Farms Wagyu hot dogs. It was all fun and affordable.
Right now the dining room is full-service. Wong plans to expand dining into the wonderfully pleasant and shady courtyard and provide quick-service options there by summer.
SO WONG, IT’S RIGHT
Speaking of things “Wong,” this time, Dean Wong, executive director of Imua Family Services, was spotted Tuesday at Mariposa at Ala Moana Center picking up a $55,000 check from the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival organization for his noble nonprofit here on the Valley Isle.
HFWF donated $413,580 generated from last year’s event sales to statewide culinary, agricultural and community groups at the mahalo reception in the Neiman Marcus restaurant.
Besides Gov. David Ige and other Hawaii politicos, also in attendance were Maui County Farm Bureau exec director Warren Watanabe, who puts on the Maui AgFest, picking up a check for $20,000, and University of Hawaii Maui College Culinary Arts Program lecturer Dan Schulte also receiving $20,000 for the school’s cause. (Schulte oversees the students who cook at HFWF events on Maui.)
The festival will be uncorked Oct. 2-3 on the Big Island, Oct. 15-18 at Ka‘anapali Resort venues and Oct. 21-25 on Oahu, with more than 100 renowned chefs and about 200 culinary students statewide helping out.
“Witnessing students getting inspiration working with world-class chefs is a joy to an educator,” said Schulte. “The HFWF’s generous donation directly benefits UHMC’s ability to deliver a quality education to our culinary students through the festival experience.”
For 2020 festival updates, visit hfwf.me.
KICK UP YOUR HEELS
“Go for the Green” is the sixth annual Rotary Club of Lahaina Sunset’s St. Patrick’s Day party, where you’ll be Dublin over with laughter and fun from 6 to 9 p.m. Friday at the Royal Lahaina Resort in Kaanapali.
Kick up your heels in the resort’s Monarchy Ballroom, where the popular band Nevah Too Late will perform dance music. Dine on an Irish-themed dinner buffet with shepherd’s pie, corned beef and cabbage, miniature Reuben sandwiches and Bailey’s cupcakes. Sip whiskey or dark and velvety Guinness Stout and bid at live and silent auctions. Mistress of ceremonies is Kathy Collins.
“One live-auction item is an ocean cottage for two at Travaasa Hana Hotel, and silent-auction items include gift certificates for two at Cane & Canoe in Kapalua, the Hapa dinner show at Nalu’s in Kihei and Warren & Annabells’s Magic Theatre in Lahaina,” according to club secretary Joanne Laird.
Cost of $100 per person includes dinner and two drinks; a table for 10 is $800. Proceeds support beach rescue tubes for West Maui, recycling and student scholarships. For tickets, visit universe.com or call 669-5200.
NEW IN KIHEI
Tucked away in the former 808 Bistro behind Fred’s Mexican Cantina and Moose McGillycuddy’s in Kihei is the new Penny’s Pizza & Pasta. Those looking for a quiet haven for dinner will find an open-air setting with sunset views of Kamaole Beach Park II on one side and an herb and vegetable garden in the other direction. A beautiful wood-burning pizza oven and a quaint bar with an antique look from stained glass and a mural enhance the look, as do red brick, sage-green and white walls, all colors of the Italian flag.
“We opened on Feb. 10,” said partner George Watson. “Everything was handmade, including the pizza oven. We have no TVs, no loud music, no happy hour. It is nice and quiet here.”
Named after partner Penny Jo Putnam, the new eatery is family-friendly with affordable prices. Popular items so far include mushroom and bacon lasagna, chicken Parmesan and Penny’s Supreme pizza with pepperoni, Italian sausage, ham, mushrooms, olives, bell pepper, onion, fresh garlic and tomatoes. You’ve gotta try the little salami cups, too, filled with artichoke hearts and other veggies and baked with mozzarella cheese.
“I’ve been making the same lasagna recipe since my kids were little, so that’s been around for 20 years now,” says Putnam. “The salami cups are Karen Watson’s recipe; she’s George’s wife. We all collaborated on our home recipes. We serve Peroni beer on tap and pour Chianti wine along with spirits in our full bar.”
Hours are 4 to 9 p.m. nightly; walk-ins are welcome. For more details, call 874-8000.
LET’S HEAR IT FOR THE GIRLS
Although Girls Day officially was Tuesday, Ka‘anapali Beach Hotel is pres- enting its annual Hinamatsuri Girl’s Day Festival and brunch celebration from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. today. Bring the whole ohana and enjoy Japanese arts and crafts, Maui Taiko Drums, live Hawaiian entertainment and kimono dress-up photo ops by Maui Minyo Kai.
Japanese, local and American favorites from sushi to prime rib will be featured on the all-you-can-eat buffet. Cost is $50 for adults and $28 for children ages 6 to 12. There’s no charge for children ages 5 and younger with paying adult. Reservations are required. Call KBH at 667-0124.
Veteran journalist Carla Tracy pops the cork on Maui’s dining and entertainment scene in her weekly column. Email her at carlatracy808@gmail.com.
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