Stacey Kwon lived in Hawaii as a college student at the University of Hawaii-Manoa. But even that time in the islands didn’t prepare her for the draw of a singular Instagram post announcing the May 28 soft opening of H Mart in Kakaako.
H Mart, an international Asian food market, has its roots in Queens, N.Y. Its first Hawaii location is in the nearly 25,000-square-foot building across Down to Earth, with a supermarket at street level and a food hall on the second floor.
“We didn’t expect this kind of crowd,” said Kwon, the company’s president. “We thought a couple customers walking by would come in, maybe 10 people at a time. We’re trying our best to keep up with demand.”
The “crowd” during the pandemic translates to one-quarter store capacity. Security guards at the door count folks walking in and wipe down carts. All staffers wear masks.
Kwon said the original plan was to open post pandemic, but the need for basic supplies prompted the change. “We decided on a soft opening when we heard that residents had difficulty getting essentials like toilet paper, rice, flour, things like that. We wanted to help.”
A grand opening celebration will be held when things return to normal, she said. “After the grand opening, we’ll start doing sales and events — and then you’ll see what H Mart is really all about in terms of quality and price.”
>> MORE PHOTOS: First H Mart in Hawaii offers wide variety in Kakaako
DURING A VISIT last week, the seafood section was still ramping up. Large tanks churning fresh water were poised to be filled with live lobsters, and Dungeness crab from Washington state. Fresh tuna will come from Hawaii waters, and other fish will be flown in from Japan and Korea. The department will cook seafood upon request.
The meat cases offer a wide variety of beef and pork cuts, as well as poultry. Kobe beef with incredible marbling, a rarity on supermarket shelves, often sells out.
Shopper Rae Lam of Honolulu decided on spareribs for stew and pork belly. She had stopped in after passing by and seeing the store was open. “I love the different meat selections and cuts.”
Another draw is packaged ramen. “Their ramen selection is great,” Lam said. “They have stuff you can’t find anywhere else.”
In fact, arguably the biggest allure for Hawaii folks is the selection of packaged items from Korea and other parts of Asia. Colorful bags of ramen, instant soups and curries, and snacks crowd shelves. Freezer cases are full of frozen dumplings and icy treats. Cases of trendy drinks are stacked to form new aisles.
Sarah Zimnawoda browsed the snack aisle with her husband and two young children. After four years living in Japan, the family, now at Joint Base Pearl Harbor- Hickam, was hoping to find items they’ve been missing since their move back to the States.
“We’re not looking for anything in particular, really,” she said. “We have ingredients for pad thai, but we’re getting a little bit of whatever we like.”
Kwon said the store draws a broad audience. Vegans, for instance, shop for Asian products such as tofu and produce known for freshness. “Much of our produce is local,” she said.
At the base of a stairway leading to the upstairs Market Eatery Food Hall is a cut-out wood sign custom-made by the company’s own art staff. It mimics the sign at the entrance to Haleiwa town.
Why? One food hall vendor Kwon is especially excited to include is Giovanni’s, of Giovanni’s shrimp truck on the North Shore.
Kwon sought eateries from across the island, gathering leads from industry friends, social media, restaurant reviews and news articles. She secured vendors herself, sometimes spending countless hours just to get face time with owners. “In some cases, I literally sat and waited outside. It sometimes took a year.”
The food hall opened June 5, the first day of dine-in business for restaurants since the coronavirus lockdown.
The lineup: Giovanni’s, Natsu Boshi (Japanese food), Aloha Aina (toast sandwiches), Left Wing (Korean chicken wings), Sadie’s Dul Korean Cuisine , Ireh (authentic Korean), Black Sheep Cream Co. (artisan ice cream) and Let Them Talk Bar. The bar will feature 99-cent beers and 30 taps, to include $2 Heineken pint specials and local beers from Aloha Beer, Waikiki Brewing and Maui Brewing companies.
Kwon talked to about 60 eateries, and the final lineup was a work in progress during the long process of construction and renovations. Over that time, vendors came and went.
In fact, it took six years to bring H Mart to Hawaii. Kwon said it took more than three years just to find a site.
The name H Mart might be familiar to local residents; H Mart Super Market in Kalihi also sells ethnic food. But the businesses are not related.
H Mart grew out of a single grocery story opened by Kwon’s father, Il Yeon Kwon, in 1982. Today, there are nearly 100 stores across the U.S., plus more in Canada and the U.K.
Kwon said having a Hawaii store is particularly important. She said she believes the future of Asian food in the U.S. is what’s happening in Hawaii today.
“I think it’s essential to be part of the Hawaii community as an Asian American food company,” she said. “If you’re talking about Asian food culture in America, you can’t talk about it without Hawaii. If you’re not talking about Hawaii, you’re missing part of the conversation.”
5 TOP PICKS
The aisles of H Mart can be bewildering for those unfamiliar with Korean packaged foods. Company President Stacey Kwon helps narrow the field with some tasty suggestions:
>> “Parasite” noodles: These packaged noodles — Neoguri Spicy Seafood and Chapaghetti Jjajang (both sold in $6.99 packs) — have been wildly popular since the housekeeper in the Oscar-winning “Parasite” movie combined them and served them topped with sirloin. “It was affordable food meets expensive food,” illustrating the film’s theme of class wars, said Kwon.
>> Ohsung Yes! Chips!: In shrimp and corn flavors ($1.99 per bag). Kwon loves these for their puffed lightness and for the fact that “they’re always on sale.”
>> Boba ice cream:A trending snack locally, available in a variety of brands and flavors ($10.99).
>> Haitai Honey Butter Chips: Addictive potato chips ($3.49, recently on sale for $1.99), flavored with “French gourmet butter.”
>> Ktown Yaki Gyoza:Choose vegetable or kimchee fillings ($2.99). Another Kwon favorite, for both tastiness and price.
458 Keawe St., 219-0924, hmart.com. Hours are currently 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Validated parking next door at 440 Keawe St. and at the Salt at Our Kakaako parking complex.