Nearly half the world and 11 time zones separate Hilo and Beirut. The quiet town on Hawaii island and the war-torn capitol of Lebanon seem even further apart figuratively.
But Hilo resident Fares Boughanem sees similarities that remind him of his native land in the Middle East.
“Beaches. We have very nice beaches and very nice mountains (in Lebanon),” Boughanem said. “It’s like here. Sometimes there’s snow on the mountains in the spring, and you can ski and swim or surf on the same day. It is very sad what has happened in my country, but it is still a beautiful place.”
Boughanem arrived in Hilo from Chicago 10 years ago with his brother Jay, an orthopedic surgeon. He previously lived in Orlando with another brother, Jim. This was after Fares left Lebanon in 1997 and worked 2-1/2 years in Saudi Arabia as a baker and caterer.
Before opening Tabaraka last month — the first Lebanese food outlet on the Big Island — Fares Boughanem worked in construction and his dream was to become a yoga instructor. Meanwhile, he made falafel, hummus and baba ganouj for his new friends in Hawaii … friends who encouraged him to sell his wares at farmers markets.
When he began to think about opening a restaurant, he realized he would need to expand his repertoire.
“When I came here, I noticed people eat a lot of meat. Myself, I’m vegan,” Boughanem said. “They tell me you can’t force people what to eat.”
He is most known for his falafel plate, but Fares also now makes dishes that include chicken, lamb and beef.
For now, Tabaraka operates from a food truck on Waianuenue Avenue, near the Hilo post office, with covered seating nearby. Boughanem has a space for a restaurant at the same location, but COVID-19 restrictions have delayed permitting. When the restaurant opens he will expand the menu to include fish and a garlic tofu specialty; the truck will still be used, for catering.
“Our second step after opening the restaurant is to build a pita oven,” he said. “The quality of the pita plays a big role in the quality of the rest of the food.”
Lebanese cuisine is similar to food from other eastern Mediterranean countries, with a couple of fundamental differences.
Pita from Lebanon and other Arabic countries is more of a flatbread than European pita, which is more “doughy,” said Tabaraka manager Olivia Grodzka.
“Our sauce is different (than Greek) because we use more tahini (sesame paste) and olive oil than yogurt and cucumber,” Boughanem said.
It’s not always easy to find some ingredients locally, but Boughanem has good authenticity testers. His parents, Nassis and Nadia, live in Hilo now, too.
“I always let her taste it and she tells me it’s good,” Boughanem said of his mother, who taught her six children — all boys — how to cook and clean house.
Boughanem is also trying to get his girlfriend from Lebanon to Hilo, but the coronavirus has made travel complicated.
He has no plans of going anywhere. Hilo has become home.
“Even flying to Oahu is too far for me,” he said. “I loved downtown Chicago. When I first got to Hilo I wanted to go back. But after three years I felt like my heart and soul is attached to the island. I love the Big Island, I love the people. I want to make good food and just be happy to see people have a smile on their face.”
———
Tabaraka, which means “blessings be” in Arabic, is open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays at 272 Waianuenue Ave. in Hilo. Prices range from $12 for sandwiches to $23 for large “village-style” plates. Call 825-7003.
