In the Before Times, we would now be in the afterglow of our annual outpouring of devotion to gelatinous meat in a can, the Waikiki Spam Jam. That tribute, normally held in the spring, was nixed along with all such festivities because of the pandemic.

We can honor its spirit, though, by exploring some new ways to glorify Spam. Handily, along comes a fresh cookbook with plenty of ideas.

I’ve seen a lot of these, and this one — “The Ultimate Spam Cookbook” by the makers of Spam, Hormel Foods — is especially flashy and colorful, with 140 recipes from basic to gourmet. It has no single writer or editor; author credit goes to “the Hormel Kitchen.”

My usual approach with a Spam book is to flip the pages looking for something truly different, past recipes that basically swap Spam in for another protein. This cookbook uses Spam in an international collection: enchiladas, Loco Moco, eggs Benedict, pierogi, sushi (including a Korean version), summer rolls, grilled cheese sandwiches and lots more. There are eight musubi variations.

In the end what really got my attention were these recipes near the back of the book that used Spam to wrap an egg and to frame a rectangle of fried rice. Spam on the outside. Major wow factor.

I took both recipes for a spin and have adapted the instructions to make them a little more user-friendly. I’d also note that you could use any flavor of Spam to vary the results.

Consider either or both for a brunch, once you’re able to host a gathering again, or indulge yourself and your bubble of family and friends right now. Either would be a nice side dish with a bowl of ramen.

A SIX-MINUTE soft-cooked egg ends up medium- soft once this egg goes through its frying and baking cycles. Go hard-boiled if you don’t like runny eggs. This idea was contributed by Christy Goode, a chef in Wales, where the traditional Scotch egg is a favorite.

SPAM SCOTCH EGG

• 5 eggs, divided
• 1 (12-ounce) can Spam, chopped
• 12 ounces ground pork
• 1 teaspoon pepper
• 1/4 cup flour
• 1/2 cup panko
• Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Soft-boil 4 of the eggs: Place in a pot of simmering water for 6 minutes, then remove to bowl of cold water.

Place Spam and ground pork in food processor or blender; season with pepper. Process until mixture forms a smooth paste.

Break last egg into shallow bowl and beat. Place flour and panko on separate plates.

Carefully peel eggs; place on baking sheet.

Cover each egg with pork mixture: Place a scoop of mixture in one hand, flatten slightly, then place an egg in center. Cover with more pork mixture and use hands to gently encase the egg in 1/2 to 3/4 inches of meat. (Any extra pork mixture can be fried as patties)

Coat egg in flour, then beaten egg, then panko. (It’s easiest to cradle the egg in one hand and use the other to sprinkle it with flour, egg and panko.) Lay each egg back on baking sheet.

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Pour oil into small pot about 2 inches deep. Heat to 360 degrees. Deep-fry eggs, one at a time, turning until golden brown all around. Return eggs to baking sheet. Bake 7 minutes.

Cut eggs in half to serve. Serves 4.

Approximate nutritional information, per egg: 770 cal­- o­­ries, 61 g fat, 18 g saturated fat, 355 mg cholesterol, 1,300 mg sodium, 17 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 1 g sugar, 35 g protein.

UNLIKE THE Scotch egg, which is quite a project, this Spam rice pancake recipe is very simple. I’ve used the cookbook recipe just as a starting point, as it is easily varied. The filling is much like fried rice, so you could use whatever you have on hand (colorful veggies are good for looks, cheese is good for a burst of flavor). You could even use leftover fried rice, just add an egg, which serves as the “glue” to hold it all together. The recipe is credited to CookAt, which offers cook-at-home suggestions on social media platforms. Next time I’m making it with Hot & Spicy Spam.

SPAM RICE PANCAKE

• 2 cans Spam (any flavor)
• 1 to 2 teaspoons vegetable or olive oil
• >> Filling:
• 1 cup cooked rice
• 3 tablespoons chopped onion
• 2 tablespoons mix-ins of choice, such as chopped vegetables or shredded cheese
• 1 egg, slightly beaten
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Slice Spam from top to bottom (lengthwise) into 8 pieces (4 pieces per can, each about 1/2 inch thick). Cut a rectangle from the center of each to make 8 Spam “frames.”

>> To make filling: Take 2 to 3 of the center pieces and dice to make 3 tablepoons of Spam. Combine with rice, onions, mix-ins and egg; stir until evenly combined. Season with salt and pepper. (Reserve remaining Spam center pieces for another meal).

Heat a skillet over medium-high and add just enough oil to slightly coat surface. Place 1 or 2 Spam frames into skillet (or as many as will fit without crowding). Spoon filling into center of each frame, pressing filling flat. When Spam and filling are light brown on bottom, 2-4 minutes, flip pieces. Cook another 2 minutes, then remove and repeat to cook all the slices, adding more oil if needed to prevent sticking. Serves 4 to 6.

Nutritional information unavailable.

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“The Ultimate Spam Cookbook” was released by Fox Chapel Publishing in August. Find it in bookstores or online booksellers. List price is $12.99. The book was written by the Hormel Kitchen and includes recipes developed by Hormel, as well as contributions from guest chefs and the winners of Spam cookoffs.

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