The more we learn about COVID-19’s spread through indoor aerosols — respiratory droplets released whenever people open their mouths to talk, laugh, cough or sneeze — the more we’ve opted for the relative safety of the outdoors.
That holds true whether seeking recreation at beaches and parks, or places to dine. Some restaurants were fortunate enough to have outdoor tables before the pandemic struck, but a loosening of city regulations means that others are allowed to set up tables outdoors, which is nice in a place blessed with good weather nearly year-round. It’s the one pandemic adaptation I hope continues after the disease runs its course.
But change hasn’t come easily to everyone. Over at Chef Mavro, chef-owner Jeremy Shigekane made the decision to offer outdoor dining in his parking lot in July when he introduced his M Outdoor Brasserie concept with a la carte choices in lieu of lengthy tasting menus that were the restaurant’s signature.
But traffic was slow after the second shutdown ended Sept. 24 and Shigekane said the cost of offering the outdoor dinner service on Fridays and Saturdays didn’t justify the cost of tent rental. He is now offering indoor service only, until he is able to purchase a tent.
“We would like to accommodate people because some feel more comfortable outdoors, even if they’re just sitting in a parking lot, while some want to be indoors with air-conditioning,” he said.
“We’re still doing to-go service limited to two days a week, but if we had the tent, people could pick up their food and eat it under the tent.”
Over at 1938 Indochine, which opened in August, owner Kevin Aoki said, “I feel fortunate I have outdoor space.” But having opened his restaurant with the theme of bringing Southeast Asian street culture indoors, even he scrambled to return to the street. He added more outdoor tables, some set under wooden gazebos, and other amenities, as diners have made their preferences known. Even with social distancing, he was able to increase his outdoor capacity from 40 seats to 80.
“The gazebos were planned in advance, but I’ve installed lights, planters and speakers for live music. I’m working on installing Plexiglas shields between tables.”
Customers feel comfortable outdoors, he said. “They don’t leave. The whole outside fills up about 6:30 p.m. and customers who sit outside sit for three hours. The inside turns every 90 minutes.”
The menu format has changed from tasting menus (now available to-go through online ordering) to small- and large-plate a la carte options ranging from glass noodle shrimp ($10.95) and chicken laap ($10.75) to lemon grass pork ribs ($15.95) and Vietnamese pork chops ($13.50).
Diners at Qing Mu, Indochine’s sister restaurant next door, are welcome to enjoy their banh mi and pho at Indochine’s outdoor tables until 5 p.m., after which dining moves indoors only.
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Both restaurants at 602 Ala Moana Blvd. Indochine open 5 to 10 p.m. daily (545-7777); Qing Mu open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily (544-0005).
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Here are other restaurants offering open-air service. Information, such as restaurant hours, is subject to change, due to the fluid COVID-19 situation.
Basalt
The restaurant has increased its outdoor seating to accommodate 44 diners with social distancing.
Start with appetizers of rotisserie duck empanadas ($12) or adobo chicken wings ($13). Entrees include an 8-ounce wagyu burger ($17), prime rib sandwich ($16), rigatoni Bolognese ($21), miso black cod with dashi nage ($29) and New York steak with garlic mashed potatoes ($26). Create a surf-and-turf plate with an $8 add-on of five roasted garlic shrimp.
Finish with desserts of Grand Marnier mousse cake ($6), a sponge cake strawberry roll ($7) or guava lilikoi cake ($6).
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Ground floor, Hyatt Centric Waikiki Beach Hotel, inside Duke’s Lane Market & Eatery, 2255 Kuhio Ave. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays, 8 a.m. to to 9 p.m. Saturdays, and 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays. Validated hotel parking. Call 923-5689.
Deck.
One year after the Queen Kapiolani Hotel unveiled a $35 million face-lift, its plans proved prescient. The high point of the renovation was a new pool deck and 8,000- square-foot lanai that is home to Deck., the hotel’s alfresco restaurant with a Diamond Head view.
Beyond the casual standards of burgers, fries and chicken wings typical of poolside hotel restaurants, Deck. offered an ambitious casual-luxe menu from the start. Recent additions include roasted salmon with Hawaiian miso butter ($26), Kauai garlic prawns in a coconut curry sauce ($26), and jerk chicken with lemon grass and macadamia nut butter sauce ($24).
During happy hour, cold and hot appetizers, regularly priced $14 to $16, are $10, and well liquors, beers and select wines by the glass are half-price.
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At 150 Kapahulu Ave., third floor. Open 3 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays to Sundays, with happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m. Call 931-4488. New Saturday brunch and Sunday champagne brunch run 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. at Knots Coffee Roasters in the hotel lobby.
Doraku
After months of closure, Doraku at the Royal Hawaiian Center recently reopened, with 10 tables outside.
At its Kapiolani Boulevard location, the addition of three tables in a new area compensated for tables lost to social distancing, bringing the number of outdoor tables to 11.
At either restaurant, enjoy izakaya specialties from sushi and sashimi to such hot specialties as pork belly yakisoba ($12.95) and wafu rib-eye steak ($24.95).
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In Waikiki at Royal Hawaiian Center (922-3323). Open 11:30 to 9 p.m. daily with happy hour 3 to 6 p.m. In Kakaako at 1009 Kapiolani Blvd. (591-0101). Open for lunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily and for dinner 4 to 11 p.m. Sundays to Thursdays and 4 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Happy hour 4 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to closing.
53 by the Sea
This Kakaako restaurant offers a picturesque view overlooking the ocean, with Diamond Head in the distance. There’s room for about 36 on an outdoor lanai, where guests can be seated for dinners of pan-roasted king salmon ($38), braised short ribs ($37) pan-roasted prime filet ($58) or grilled prime rib-eye ($58).
The restaurant is also open for Sunday brunch, which can be served outdoors, but due to the hot weather, guests often prefer indoor seating.
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At 53 Ahui St. Open 5 to 8 p.m. Wednesdays to Sundays, and brunch 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Sundays. Happy hour 2 to 5 p.m. daily. Call 536-5353.
Hideout at the Laylow
Although the Laylow Hotel has remained open throughout the pandemic, the hotel only recently reopened its signature lanai restaurant and bar, Hideout at the Laylow. It’s a beautiful, relaxing space for anyone looking for an open-air, socially distanced escape any day of the week, with enough space to accommodate 105 people.
A handful of new dishes — such as an avocado and beet salad ($16) and kampachi crudo ($16) with calamansi and white balsamic vinegar — join original crowd pleasers of chicken satay with red curry peanut sauce ($14) and crispy pork belly ($13).
Also popular are entree-size rice bowls topped off with veggies or such protein choices as ahi poke ($22), a generous portion of kalbi ($27) and kalua pork ($21).
Signature cocktails range from a Laylow Hawaiian-style mai tai to The Lucky Kid, with Pau Maui vodka, ginger lime tea syrup, Ancho Reyes Verde chile poblano liqueur, lilikoi and pineapple.
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At 2299 Kuhio Ave. Open 5 to 10 p.m. daily, with happy hour from 5 to 6 p.m. Grab-and-go breakfast runs 6 to 10 a.m. at Hideout Coffee. Call 628-3060.
Island Vintage Wine Bar
This wine bar provides a welcoming open-air space for those who want to savor and learn more about wine, with outdoor seating and indoor-outdoor lanai seatingoverlooking the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
To go with those wines is an impressive range of dishes, starting with the expected cheese and fruit plate ($22), charcuterie board ($26), or cheese and charcuterie combo ($29), but moving up to impressive burgers and such entrees as koji-smokedpork belly ($21), 24-hour braised short ribs ($26), and a seafood platter of fish, Keahole clams and Kauai prawns in a tomato-wine sauce ($29).
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At Royal Hawaiian Center. Open 5 to 10 p.m. weekdays, and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekends. Call 799-9463.
Kahai Street Kitchen
For casual dining, this Moiliili takeout spot offers four picnic tables where you can plant yourself while enjoying such local-style classics as guava BBQ beef brisket ($12.95), boneless Korean kalbi ($16.95), or hamburger steak with mushrooms and onions ($12.95).
Daily specials are posted regularly on Instagram @kahaistkitchen; recent offerings have included 10-ounce pulehu rib-eye ($22.95), furikake-crusted opakapaka ($15.95), braised lamb potpie ($16.95), and a trio of salmon tacos with jalapeno coleslaw and Sriracha aioli ($13.95).
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At 946 Coolidge St. Open 10:30 to 3 p.m. Mondays, 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays, and breakfast specials 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays. Call 845-0320.
Merriman’s Honolulu
Merriman’s surprised us all when, instead of reopening its dining room, it launched a new, more casual approach, the Street Burger & Beer Garden, an outdoor venue that remains true to chef Peter Merriman’s farm-to-table philosophy.
The original menu of street corn, burgers and sandwiches, $9 to $15, has expanded to include daily specials and luxe entrees. Recent offerings have included smoked pork tacos ($13), an organic turkey dinner with sausage herb stuffing ($29), and butter- and lemon-steamed opakapaka ($32).
Bestsellers include the house burger ($12) with cheddar, caramelized onions and Dijonnaise, and a Moroccan-herbed fresh fish sandwich ($15) with avocado, chipotle aioli, sprouts and tomato. Accompaniments include Mexican street corn ($6), Caesar salad ($8), fresh fruit ($4) or potato chips ($3).
The outdoor space fills up on weekends, so seats have been increased from 45 to 60. General manager Tom Bean said once Oahu reaches the Tier 2 level of reopening, possibly Thursday, the restaurant plans to restore indoor dining with affordable, three-course prix fixe meals that must be reserved in advance.
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At 1108 Auahi St. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Call 215-0022.
Quiora
Quiora brings a sunny taste of Italy to Waikiki with a menu of artisan pastas, including lush blankety pappardelle with pork ($24/$36) or porcini ($25/$38), rich spaghetti carbonara ($24/$36) and dumpling-like agnolotti with braised pork ($26).
Family style dining has been welcomed at this open-air patio restaurant since it opened last fall. The menu is small but satisfying, with carefully selected starters such as Calabrian chile-garlic shrimp ($21), burrata ($18) or polpettone (braised pork meatballs, $18), and entree plates of whole fish (market price), porchetta ($55) or steak ($55) that can feed two.
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At Ritz-Carlton Residences, eighth floor, 383 Kalaimoku St. Open 5:30 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays to Sundays. Call 729-9757.
Taormina Sicilian Cuisine
This upscale Italian restaurant offers space for about 18 diners in its open-air terrace, with accommodations by request.
Lunch comprises signature pastas such as spaghetti with sea urchin ($36) and granchio (fettuccine with crabmeat and tomato cream, $17), as well as filet mignon ($39), chicken with lemon butter ($21) and grilled Hawaiian catch ($23). The dinner menu features a range of antipasti, pastas, risotto, grilled fish and meat dishes such as grilled Colorado lamb chops ($68) and pan-roasted duck breast ($38).
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At 227 Lewers St. Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 8 p.m. daily. Call 926-5050.
Tim Ho Wan
The dim sum specialist is takeout-only for now, but customers are welcome to eat on its spacious outdoor lanai.
The menu offers such classic items as steamed pork and shrimp siu mai ($5.25), shrimp and chive dumplings ($5), braised chicken feet ($4.50) and steamed beef balls ($5), as well as signature light and sweet baked BBQ pork buns ($5.75).
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At Royal Hawaiian Center. Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. Call 888-6088.
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.
