Whenever I grow weary of the heat and congestion of Central Maui, I head to higher ground Upcountry — a pleasant 20- to 40-minute drive from town, depending on how far you want to venture. The clear, cool air and bicoastal views are reason enough for a road trip, but here’s another: wine tasting at MauiWine in Ulupalakua.
The winery’s vineyards were planted in 1974 at the 1,800-foot elevation, producing six grape varietals on 23 acres. Winery tours and the King’s Cottage indoor tasting room are closed due to COVID-19, but lanai seating overlooking the lovely grounds and the expansive South Maui coastline below make for a relaxing experience.
BUILT DURING the 1870s as a guesthouse for King David Kalakaua, the cottage hosts a small boutique and historical photos, relics and documents from the property’s early days as Rose Ranch.
On the languorous late afternoon of our visit, four tasting flights were offered — Pineapple ($12), Rose Ranch ($12), Fruity ($15) and Bubbles ($15) — each comprising three selections. (We were a bit disappointed there were no reds in the bunch.)
Favorites among our group were the aged Lokelani Brut sparkling rosé and the crisp Kula White Blend, made in partnership with California growers. Both are produced under the Rose Ranch label and formulated around the inclusion of syrah and viognier grapes from the Maui vineyard.
Also popular was the easy-going Maui Splash, crafted from 100% Maui Gold pineapples crushed and pressed at MauiWine with a touch of lilikoi essence — sweet but not too.
The Fruity flight featured one of my favorite MauiWine gifts, the juicy Lehua raspberry dessert wine, sourced from local and Washington state growers. (Try it over vanilla ice cream.)
A ROTATING selection of estate wines under the Ulupalakua Vineyards label, made entirely from the vineyard’s grapes, is available as well, along with wine cocktails and nonalcoholic beverages. A meager menu of snacks includes the Provision Pack ($20) with two flavors of goat cheese, nuts, dried fruit, shortbread cookies and more.
No outside food is allowed, but Thursdays and Fridays are “Burger with Wine Days,” when you can order ranch-raised elk, lamb, venison and beef burgers delivered from Ulupalakua Ranch Grill across the street.
The oenophiles in your group may argue the merits of the wine list, but there’s no debating the setting and ambiance.
Seating is very limited, so reservations are a must. And don’t forget to ask about a kamaaina discount.
Tip: Don’t leave Upcountry on an empty stomach, especially after all that wine. Stop by Kula Bistro, 4566 Lower Kula Road, for dine-in or takeout panini, pasta, pizza and more. Call (808) 871-2960.
MauiWine King’s Cottage tastings are held 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursdays through Sundays; 14815 Piilani Highway, Kula; (808) 878-6058, mauiwine.com.
