Back in the Day: Chinese-style stuffing a sticky favorite

One of the favorite dishes on our Thanksgiving table is No Mai Fan — sticky mochi or sweet rice, seasoned with Chinese sausages (lup cheong), barbecued marinated pork (char siu) and shiitake mushrooms. It can be served in place of bread stuffing or in addition to it. Isn’t Thanksgiving the biggest carb celebration of the year?

My sister Charlene Chan learned the recipe from her mother-in-law, Ella Chan of San Francisco, and it is a winner. The diced meats are spread like jewels throughout the steamed rice and it resembles a great fried rice. But this dish is never fried, just steamed.

The Chan family cuts the meat until it is almost minced. You could dice it larger, if you prefer.

Instead of using only mochi rice, this recipe uses almost 2 parts long-grain rice to 1-part mochi rice. The texture is wonderful; a bit sticky, but not too much. If you’d like it really sticky, increase the amount of mochi rice or use short- or medium-grain rice instead of the drier long-grain.

Mrs. Chan had a scientific way to coax the flavor out of umami-rich dry shiitake mushrooms. After rehydrating, she layered diced mushrooms between the raw long-grain rice and the mochi rice.

After 10 minutes of cooking, the meats are added, and 45 minutes later, the rice is thoroughly cooked and flavored with the char siu and lup cheong. Chopped green onions and cilantro are added for color and freshness.

At Chinese restaurants, this mixture is steamed in lotus leaves and served as a dim sum specialty. You can make a stunning presentation by steaming a large kabocha or traditional pumpkin and using it as the serving vessel for your stuffing.

Another version, called No Mai Gai, includes chunks of chicken in addition to the sweet sausage and pork.

The entire combination of flavors is mixed thoroughly and served hot or at room temperature.

Don’t stress on Thanksgiving Day. This recipe is easily made ahead and refrigerated or frozen. Steam or microwave to reheat. Add fresh green onions or cilantro for garnish and serve what may become your favorite side dish.

NO MAI FAN CHINESE MOCHI RICE STUFFING

Modified from recipe by Charlene Chan and Ella Chan

• 6 large dried shiitake mushrooms
• 1 cup hot water
• 1-3/4 cups raw long-grain rice (substitute medium- or short-grain)
• 1 cup raw mochi (sweet) rice
• 2-1/2 to 3 cups chicken broth
• 1/2 pound diced char siu pork
• 3 lup cheong sausages, diced
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 cup chopped green onions
• 3/4 cup chopped cilantro, divided

Soak mushrooms in hot water at least 30 minutes to rehydrate. Discard stems and dice. Reserve mushroom liquid.

Rinse both types of rice; drain, but keep separate. Place long-grain rice on bottom of a large stock pot or Dutch oven. Cover with mushrooms, then layer mochi rice on top.

Add mushroom liquid, being careful not to add any gritty liquid from the bottom. Add chicken broth until liquid is an inch above rice. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer; cover.

Mix char siu, lup cheong, oyster sauce and soy sauce. Set aside.

Simmer rice until liquid has been reduced to the level of the rice (start checking after 10 minutes).

Add seasoned meat mixture, cover and simmer until meat is cooked through, about 45 more minutes. Add green onions and cilantro, reserving 2 tablespoons of cilantro; mix thoroughly. Transfer to a serving platter or bowl, garnish with reserved cilantro. Serves 10 as a side dish.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 330 calories, 8 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, 25 mg cholesterol, 800 mg sodium, 50 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 15 g protein.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “Back in the Day,” is fascinated by old-fashioned foods. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.