Rum amok

Ask any cocktail connoisseur what the official cocktail of Hawaii should be, and you’ll get an array of answers. Whether your vote is for Trader Vic’s royal mai tai or the all-time classic daiquiri, one ingredi ent remains consistent across the board — rum.

Once known as “kill devil,” this potent potable has become one of the most complex and diverse spirits in the world.

Growing up in Hawaii, if you’re anything like me, your first taste of rum was either coconut flavored or smacked with vanilla and allspice. It came either mixed with Coca-Cola or shaken in an electric-green pineapple juice concoction.

While flavored rums were the perfect touch in my piña coladas, it was 10 years before I learned terms like “agricole” and that the daiquiri was created in Cuba and originally served “up” (chilled).

Native Hawaiians cultivated many varieties of sugar cane, believing each to be imbued with its own sacred power, but they never produced actual sugar until European contact. Though sugar cane itself was cultivated in New Guinea and first fermented in India, we mainly recognize where sugar production hit its peak to be the West Indies. Molasses, from which most rum is produced, is an agricultural byproduct of refined sugar production. Once the sugar is crystalized out of the sugar cane juice, molasses remains, which can then be fermented into alcohol. Different styles of rum were developed, reflective of the techniques of the differing cultures occupying the islands. Today, there is the light, fruity Spanish style; the rich, spicy British style; and the iconic French style.

Rhum agricole is the French method of distilling rum using indigenous yeasts and the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice. The result is a tropical spirit, which is reflective of its terroir. Hawaii boasts two of its own Hawaiian agricole rums and a handful of traditional rums. Here are a few fun ones to try experimenting with at home. Why not start with a Daiquiri?

• Manulele Distillers, Ko Hana “Kea” Hawaiian Agricole Rum
• Kuleana Rum Works, “Hui Hui” Hawaiian Rum Agricole and molasses-based blend
• Kula Toasted Coconut Organic Rum
• Kolani Distillers, Old Lahaina Silver and Dark Rums.

Directions:

Shake all ingredients over ice and fine strain into a chilled coupe glass. Serve up. Garnish with kaffir lime leaf cut to resemble a monstera leaf and lime wheel.

To make kaffir lime leaf and ginger syrup:

Stir in 1 cup sugar into 1 cup warm water over the stove until dissolved. Bring to a boil and add 10-15 kaffir lime leaves. Remove from heat and let cool. Let leaves infuse for at least 4 hours before removing. Add 1 ounce of fresh ginger juice; stir to incorporate. Keep covered in fridge up to two weeks.

Alicia Yamachika is a bartender and craft mixologist, who currently is the key account manager at Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits on Oahu. Follow her on Instagram (@alicia_yamachika). Her column runs every second Wednesday in Crave.