Jon Tsukamoto’s favorite soup is a fish dumpling version made by his “Grandma O,” Yaeko Onuma. She would use a ceramic mortar and wooden pestle to break the fish and tofu down into a paste.The soup broth is flavored by sake, mirin and packets of dashi powder. Garnished with chopped green onion and served hot, this old-fashioned soup is a delicious change of pace.

Aku Dumpling Soup

Ingredients:

• 1 (16-ounce) firm tofu, drained for at least 1 hour

• 1 1/2 cups chunks raw aku

• 1/2 cup white miso

• 4 teaspoons ginger, grated

• 1/4 cup green onion, chopped, more for garnish

• 6 cups water

• 2 .246-ounce packets dashi powder

• 2 tablespoons sake

• 1 tablespoon mirin

Directions:

Crumble tofu and place in a clean dish towel. Twist to squeeze out water. Using a food processor, mash the aku, tofu, ginger, miso and green onions into a paste. Set aside.

Bring 6 cups water to a boil; add dashi powder, sake and mirin to make the broth. Reduce heat to medium. Scoop 1 heaping tablespoon of the ~ sh mixture into the broth. Stir; cook about 10 minutes. Makes about 22 dumplings. Serve hot.

Garnish with chopped green onions.

Makes about 5 servings.

Lynette Lo Tom is the author of cookbooks A Chinese Kitchen and Back in the Day. She wants to hear about your cooking shortcuts. Reach her at lynette@brightlightcookery.com or @brightlightcookery on Instagram.