Do you remember your first?
My story is probably a lot like most. Freshman year dorm party, in the throes of youth and experimentation and with an already ample buzz. An attractive, out-of-my-league co-ed hands me a red plastic cup full of lukewarm, slightly fizzy liquid, leans in closely, and whispers: “You ever drank wine before?”
The drunken antics that occurred after my first wine experience is still embarrassing. I am not ashamed to admit, however, that Moscato d’Asti, along with white zin, cheap beer, and spiced rum, are all things I enjoyed for quite some time during my formative drinking years.
Fast-forward 15 years, and I’m supposedly a wine expert with a well-traveled palate that would make the guy who so spectacularly struck-out all those years ago do a double take. New taste, who dis?
We all start somewhere in our drinking journey and the overwhelming majority starts off sweet — humans are biologically hardwired that way. Even though we might’ve strayed from our gateway wines, this upcoming Valentine’s Day might be the perfect time to revisit some old flings, especially in the hands of these quality-driven wineries.
Braida, Brachetto D’acqui
For as much love as the ubiquitous moscato gets, it’s surprising the Brachetto grape isn’t also a household name. Think of Brachetto as red Moscato d’Asti. The grapes are treated similarly in both the vineyards and winery, and Acqui and Asti are neighboring regions in Piedmont, Italy.
Braida’s success championing the Barbera grape is well-documented, but they also craft the best interpretation of Brachetto that I’ve tasted. It’s adult Italian strawberry soda, with the same candied sweetness, drinkability and fizziness that put moscato on the map.
It’s a classic companion to all things chocolate and a sensational pairing with nuts, especially hazelnut, as Piedmont is one of the leading growers of it.
Cantine Elvio Tintero, Moscato D’asti, Sorì Gramella
Pierre Tintero immigrated to Italy in the year 1900 and took up odds jobs at a small, struggling winery. He soon proved essential to the wine production and fell in love with the widow/owner Rosina Cortese whom he married two years later. Today, their great-grandson is at the helm and making quite possibly the best moscato on the planet.
All the grapes come from their own single vineyard (Sorì Gramella) in a town named — get this — Mango. The wine is essentially fermented-to-order, which contributes to its insanely vibrant fruit, but also leads to its sporadic presence on the shelves. Buy it whenever you see it, store ice cold and drink as fresh as possible.
Serve with white chocolate or a simple vanilla panna cotta with tropical fruit (lilikoi being a personal favorite). Its drinkability and low-alcohol content cements its place in the brunch/beach rotation, and it sings with spicy Buffalo wings for early NFL Sunday kickoffs, though it’s been known to be in my cooler for those late University of Hawaii starts as well.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
