A creamy risotto with texture

For more than 25 years, Karen Binder was well known in Seattle for her Madison Park Café. Although it is now shuttered, it was a popular restaurant and caterer for French- and Italian-leaning foods. One recipe she makes often for her daughter, Sarah, and son-in-law, artist Colin Redican, in Kailua is mushroom risotto. Many of us think this Italian creamy rice is difficult to make. But Karen’s recipe is clear, and if you follow it step-by-step, you can serve delicious risotto. She recommends using the thick alii mushrooms, also called Hamakua mushrooms. Added to this is a small amount of dried mushrooms, such as porcinis, rehydrated and chopped for their flavor. She uses chicken stock cubes, such as Knorr brand for the liquid. Although she prefers mushroom powder from Italy, it is difficult to find in the U.S., so chicken cubes are substituted. One ingredient she insists on is risotto rice, such as Arborio or carnaroli. These types become creamy with continuous stirring and cooking for exactly 17 minutes, resulting in the best mushroom risotto.

Karen Binder’s Mushroom Risotto

Ingredients:

• 4 cups chicken or mushroom stock, prefers the Knorr brand

• 1 ounce dried wild mushrooms, hydrated in 1 cup hot water

• 5 tablespoons olive oil, divided

• 1 pound Hamakua mushrooms, cut in 1/2-inch chunks, substitute cremini

• 2 shallots, peeled and minced

• 4 large cloves garlic, minced

• 1 cup raw Arborio rice, substitute carnaroli rice, do not rinse

• 1/2 cup white wine

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Directions:

In a small pot, boil chicken broth and then keep on simmer. In a bowl, pour hot water over dried mushrooms, cover and let sit for at least 5 minutes. Remove hydrated mushrooms and chop. Retain mushroom liquid. In a large skillet, add 3 tablespoons olive oil and fresh and hydrated mushrooms on medium heat and cook until they begin to sweat, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove mushrooms to a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and shallots and cook until translucent, about 2 minutes. Then add rice and stir until rice is toasted and every grain is coated with oil, about 3 minutes. Add wine and simmer until wine has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the mushroom liquid and stir until the liquid is absorbed. Add in chopped mushrooms. Add hot chicken broth 1/2 cupful at a time and stir to keep rice from sticking to pan. Continue adding broth and cook until rice is a bit ~ rm, but creamy, about 17 minutes. Add more broth if needed to achieve the desired consistency. Add butter and Parmesan cheese. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 main dishes or 8 side servings.

Lynette Lo Tom is the author of cookbooks A Chinese Kitchen and Back in the Day. She wants to hear about your cooking shortcuts. Reach her at lynette@brightlightcookery.com or @brightlightcookery on Instagram.