Live long enough and you’ll come to recognize and appreciate the evocative power of food, stirring memory and emotion to transport us through time and space.
Maybe it’s a simple wisp of cotton candy that takes us back to our first carnival, or the flavor sensations of a gelled olive that revisits memories of a charming cafe in Lisbon.
Sometimes a fleeting once-in-a-lifetime impression becomes locked in our brains because of a potent combination of multiple layers of sensory stimuli — aroma, visuals, flavor — and warm, fuzzy associations with environment and camaraderie.
These were my thoughts when, after viewing the “Beyond Monet” exhibition at Hawaii Convention Center, a few people mentioned they wished there were a cafe aspect to the immersive art-viewing experience, that would have allowed them to feel they were transported to France, enjoying pastries and light bites.
Among the intriguing works triggering such thoughts was Claude Monet’s “Le Dejeuner sur l’herbe” (Luncheon on the Grass), a bucolic picnic scene with a spread of roast chicken, paté, salad, bread, Camembert and wine.
Monet was quite the gourmand and this was documented in Monet’s Table: The Cooking Journals of Claude Monet, featuring the Impressionist’s favorite recipes, along with photos of his gardens at Giverny, which beyond providing the visual inspiration for his masterpieces, also provided the fresh vegetables and herbs for his table.
So it’s not a stretch for those who want to continue the romance with Monet to learn that the Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort & Spa, Waikiki Beach partnered with the “Beyond Monet” exhibitors for culinary experiences, “Flavorful Impressions of Monet,” through July 31, including Monet-themed items at its afternoon tea and prix fixe dinners inspired by the artist’s work.
At the Moana’s Saturday and Sunday afternoon tea service on The Veranda, Monet-inspired macarons, apple tartines and lavender sweets have been added to its Classic, First Lady Tea, “The Duke” and Royal’Tea sets, ranging from $65 to $135 per person. The tea runs from 11:30 a.m. to last seating at 2:15 p.m. both days.
In the evening, The Beachhouse restaurant has added two French-inspired tasting menus, “The Impression” and “The Masterpiece.” The former is a three-course menu priced at $120, and the latter offers four courses for $140. Add $45 and $60, respectively, for wine or cocktail pairings.
Both menus are essentially the same. The difference is that the three-course menu has you choose between salad or appetizer, while you get both with the four courses.
It’s not a difficult choice if you’re a person who doesn’t care for greens, because few could resist the tarragon-accented white wine cream sauce and melty savory Gruyere blanketing classic Coquilles Saint-Jacques.
But this is also one of the few times when you can get a taste of the “Water Lilies”-inspired salad Lyonnaise with frisée, bacon lardons, poached egg, nasturtium leaves and shallot champagne vinaigrette.
Next comes a difficult choice between two entrées, and the question is steak or lobster?
It’s mighty hard to resist prime strip-loin au poivre served with braised red cabbage and French fries. But having tried both the steak and lobster Americaine, I’d pick the lobster on a second go ‘round simply because the sauce tastes like the best lobster bisque you’ve ever had. The dish also comes with confit fingerling potatoes, carrot purée and Brussels sprouts.
For dessert, a lemon tart is inspired by the colors of Monet’s “Sunrise,” the lemon curd tart dressed with raspberries, pink raspberry meringues and mascarpone cream over a streak of sugary blue glaze.
The open-air setting is in keeping with the Impressionists’ rejection of traditional indoor studios and perfect lighting for capturing the impressions of light and shadows en plein air, a reminder to enjoy the beautiful moments of life that pass too quickly.
‘Flavorful Impressions of Monet’
The Beachhouse Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort & Spa, Waikiki Beach
2365 Kalakaua Ave.
Call: 808-921-4600
Hours: 5:30-9:30 P.M. Wednesdays-Sundays
Prices: $120-140 per person, without alcohol
Food *** 1/2
Service ****
Ambiance ****
Value *** 1/2
Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
