High surf produces historic swells

A large south swell, which contributed to thousands of ocean rescues over the weekend, is expected to begin slowly subsiding today — although some impacts could be felt into the week.

According to the National Weather Service, a high-surf warning is in effect for all south-facing shores of all Hawaiian Islands until 6 p.m. today, when the tallest surf heights are expected to drop to 15 to 20 feet.

The possibility of rip currents in or near the surf zone intimidated some beachgoers. However, for others, conditions were an exhilarating experience that turned the waters of Waikiki and other surfing zones, especially on the south shores, into a turquoise toy box.

Angelique Murray, who lives in Kapahulu, was among those gathered Sunday at Waikiki Walls to watch the surfers and bodyboarders play. Murray said an ankle injury had prevented her from getting in the water, but her cousins were having the time of their lives.

“It’s been a long time since we’ve had a summer swell like this,” Murray said. “It’s really pumping. Everybody’s come out, and the lifeguards are on high alert.”

Murray estimated that Waikiki’s Sunday crowd was bigger than Saturday’s when a festival had closed Kala­kaua Avenue, creating a traffic nightmare.

Traffic was heavy on Sunday afternoon, too, with cars circling the district for parking spots. Motorcycle riders were out in full force.

Charles “Tiger” McAllister III, who rides with Kanaka Hekili, came all the way from Makaha.

“I wanted to check out the historical waves on this historical day,” McAllister said. “It’s the first time that I’ve seen waves that big in Waikiki.”

The weather service said Sunday that it expected the extra-large, warning-level south swell to remain elevated through Sunday night, then start lowering gradually today through Wednesday.

“Short-period, choppy surf will remain somewhat elevated over the next several days due to the tradewinds over and upwind of the state,” the weather service said. “Some longer- period energy from Tropical Cyclone Estelle in the far eastern Pacific may affect east-facing shores Thursday night through Saturday. No other significant swells are expected.”

Honolulu Emergency Serv­ices Department spokesperson Shayne Enright said Ocean Safety capped off a busy weekend by staying after hours Sunday on the South Shore, parts of the East side and on the Leeward coast.

“Ocean Safety increased its resources in the areas as well, with as many as six rescue skis in the south shore, normally there are two,” she said in an email. “There was a very large number of rescues on the south shore due to the increasing surf size and surfers getting into trouble and needing help back to shore. None of those rescued have required Honolulu Emergency Medical Serv­ices.”

Just before 5 p.m. Sunday, Enright reported that EMS had conducted 1,641 rescues and prevented 8,864 situations from escalating into rescues.

Most of the actions were on the South Shore, where, Enright said, the department conducted 1,554 rescues and 6,100 preventive actions. There were 67 rescues and more than 2,050 preventive actions on the West side. On the East side there were 20 rescues and more than 770 preventive actions, she said.

Enright said that on Saturday the department conducted 319 rescues, 28 assisted rescues and 7,580 preventive actions.

Ocean water swept across portions of beaches throughout the islands over the weekend. There were very strong breaking waves and strong longshore and rip currents. Boat handling was challenging, and a small-craft advisory was expected to stay in place through today.

Just after midnight Sunday morning, the Honolulu Fire Department was sent to rescue two adults from a sailboat that had capsized in Maunalua Bay in East Oahu. The pair were recovered at about 1:10 a.m. by HFD personnel from four resource units and a helicopter.

Oahu was not the only island dealing with high surf and other hazardous weather conditions.

Hawaii County officials closed south-shore beach parks this weekend ahead of expected high surf and rough ocean conditions as the weakening Tropical Storm Darby approached the island from the southeast and combined with a large swell from the South Pacific.

Tropical Storm Darby’s center moved south of the Big Island on Saturday and dissipated, but not before dumping heavy rain on the Big Island and bringing high surf to all islands as it moved south of the state.

Significant wave run-ups on roadways and into properties near shore were reported on Kauai, where officials urged the public to stay away from the shorelines along Poipu and other areas on the south shore, and west-facing beaches.

Other areas affected by the hazardous south swell included shorelines near Salt Pond Beach Park, Kekaha Beach Park and west-facing shorelines. Organizers with events near the shore were urged to relocate or reconsider postponing the event.

Due to hazardous ocean conditions, road damage and runoff from the ocean, Hoone Road in Poipu — from Kuai Road to Pee Road — was closed. Barricades and signs were installed, and the public was urged to avoid the area until an all-clear was given.

On Maui a portion of South Kihei Road from Uwapo to Leilani roads was closed Saturday, and was expected to remain shut down while surf washed waves and debris onto the roadway.

Mayor Michael Victorino said in a statement, “A combination of high tides and large surf is making driving hazardous in some south shore areas, so we are asking everyone to exercise caution and avoid these areas if possible.”

Maui Emergency Management Agency officials also were concerned about high-surf impacts to Honoapiilani Highway in low-lying areas from Papalaua Beach to the area popularly called Cut Mountain.