Riesling revolution

No other grape in the world is as misunderstood as riesling. Although it is often pigeonholed as a sweet wine, riesling can take many forms. Of course, it is its lusciously sweet iteration that initially captivated the world — the Titanic’s most expensive bottle on the wine list was purportedly a dessert-style German riesling — but it can also delight as a bone-dry white of power and everything in between.

To understand sweetness in wine, it is important to understand the fermentation process. With my limited scientific knowledge (thank you, public school), as far as I’m concerned, fermentation is magic — but at the heart of this extremely complex process, a simplified formula exists, which allows us to better understand the relationship between sugar and alcohol. Yeast consume sugar to create, among other things, alcohol. A winemaker can choose to let the yeast consume all the sugar (fermenting to complete dryness, which is often the case) or choose to stop the process any point. Thus, alcohol content will give you a clue on how sweet the juice might be. If you are searching for a dry riesling, look for one that has a higher alcohol (usually 12.5% and above).

So no, not all rieslings are sweet, and not all sweet ones are bad.

Try these two wines and see for yourself.

Weingut Kunstler, Rheingau, Riesling Trocken

A wine to turn your perception of sweet riesling on its head, this dry riesling (indicated by the word “Trocken” on the label) is made by Kunstler from 100% estate-owned fruit. Reminiscent of tart green apple and citrus blossom, it conjures the mouth-puckering saline brine of salt and lime atop a margarita glass. Family-owned since its inception in 1965, Kunstler is a relative newcomer relative the Rheingau’s long history. “Hock,” as wines of the region were known, is often referenced in Shakespearean text, and Thomas Jefferson purportedly brought back 100 vines from the region to replant in Monticello in 1788. 12.5% abv. Cost: $28/bottle

Schloss Vollrads Estate, Rheingau, Riesling Kabinett

Enforcing the long history of these iconic rieslings, the tradition of the “Kabinett” wines was established at Schloss Vollrads estate in 1716. Exceptional wines of a vintage were stored in the “cabinet” cellars to enjoy at a later date. Today, “Kabinett” refers to a light style of wine at the top of the German quality pyramid written into law called the Prädikat system. Quite the opposite of the aforementioned Kunstler bottling, its neighbor in the Rheingau region, this wine is lighter in body, sweeter, and downright gulpable with juicy fruit and perfumy floral qualities and just a touch of the telltale aromas of petrol, consistent with a quality riesling. It is delicious now, but you’ll be amazed at how the wine evolves in five to eight years — if you can wait that long. Try it with Portuguese sausage, eggs and rice as a breakfast wine or as a counterpoint to kalua pig sliders on sweet rolls. 9.5% abv. Cost: $25/bottle

Chris Ramelb is an award-winning sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).