Mahalo for supporting Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Enjoy this free story!
For me, brunch is one of the great pleasures of life, a symbol of leisure, camaraderie and friendly comfort food. Perhaps it’s what everyone needs as we enter the stressful holiday season. It’s the equivalent of self-care for anyone who needs to take a breather, or an easy way to gather up the gang for a casual year-end get-together.
And lucky for us, the brunch opportunities keep coming. The latest morning spot to open is WESTMAN Cafe + Lounge, which replaced Upstairs in the former Bills Sydney space on Beach Walk.
The restaurant is the new est addition to the Diamond Dining family of restaurants that includes Shokudo, Buho Cocina Y Cantina and Fukurou, so they know a thing or two about bringing new concepts to life.
Executive chef Yuya Yamanaka, formerly of Paris Hawaii, created the short-list menu that features a satisfying balance of savory and sweet.
But you’ll probably want to get started with liquid refreshments such as pineapple or orange juice mimosas ($14), a bloody mary with a touch of gochujang ($16), local craft beers, or healthful smoothies such as the berry-rich Purple Paradise ($9) or oat milk Up at Dawn ($9) with cacao, maca, maqui powder, sunflower seeds, chia, flax, honey and banana.
The room itself has always been a big draw with its high ceiling and the open-air ambiance of windows that open to a lanai with outdoor seating, and remains as inviting as it was when built by its original tenant.
Lately, I’ve been on a sweet kick so my favorite places to start would be the Big Island honey soufflé pancakes ($26) or the French toast ($23) that also comes with a mini açaí bowl. The full-size açaí bowl is $18, topped with granola, banana slices, blueberries, pineapples and strawberries, drizzled with Big Island honey.
The pancakes are a trio of fluffy wonders served with fresh fruit and a light cheese cream. In addition to maple syrup, you’re also given a choice of pinepple-mango sauce or berry sauce to add even more flavor to these confections.
Thick-cut housemade brioche French toast is an equal joy, accompanied by maple syrup and airy cheese cream studded with pistachios.
Yamanaka’s French training comes in handy with a savory croque monsieur ($22) of housemade brioche with ham, layered with a satisfying layer of rich bechamel and melty Gruyere. Add $3 to turn it into an egg-topped croque madam.
You’ll also find avocado toast ($21) loaded with extras such as a base of edamame hummus sprinkled with feta, chopped pistachios and edible flowers. The brioche toast comes with a mixed green and kale salad, and egg, any style.
At its most basic, the breakfast special ($22) covers those who just want their morning eggs and meat with the offer of two eggs prepared any style; a choice of sausage, bacon or smoked salmon; and a choice of brioche or croissant. The breakfast also includes fruit and a small salad.
Other savories include skillet meals of wagyu loco moco ($26) and another of my favorites, kalbi fried rice ($24), with three pieces of the short ribs served over fluffy fried rice flecked with Spam, green onions, carrots and mushrooms.
Considering Yamanaka is a relative newcomer to the islands, he creates a credible and upscale wagyu oxtail soup ($27) with all the right accoutrements including peanuts and cilantro, plus ginger and green onions on the side, served with a scoop of brown rice.
For me, the omelets ($22) were the least interesting aspect of the menu, largely because they are skillet-cooked, so prone to drying out. They are topped with your choice of ratatouille, macaroni gratin or combination of bacon, spinach and mushrooms. The best part was the roasted potatoes that were one carb option accompanying the omelet. The other two options are brioche or croissant.
WESTMAN provides a great way to spend a morning and they’re not ruling out evenings should labor conditions improve.
WESTMAN Cafe + Lounge
280 Beach Walk, Honolulu
Food: ****
Service: ***
Ambiance: ****
Value: ****
Call: 808-922-1500
Hours: 7 a.m.-2 p.m. Daily Wednesdays-Sundays
Prices: About $60 to $70 for two without alcohol
Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
82
