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Spring 2022 saw pandemic restrictions lift and along with it, a return to restaurants en masse, with many making small gatherings with friends their first dining venture in two years. Many experienced sticker shock in the process with increased food costs due to continuing supply shortages and the war in Ukraine.
Shortages were felt elsewhere at the table as climate change led to crop failures including that of Mexican jalapeños, leaving us without precious Sriracha sauce from spring through fall.
The news was good and bad for restaurateurs who welcomed the crowds, if somewhat unprepared due to staffing shortages in front and back of the house that led to slower service.
Many restaurateurs wanted to add hours to meet the demand, but were unable to do so because of the labor shortage that even at year’s end still have the industry asking, “Where have all the workers gone?”
In spite of the difficulties the past three years have brought, restaurateurs have always proven to be a tena cious bunch. Thanks to them, here’s how we dined in 2022:
The sushi omakase kept coming: At the start of the pandemic, I thought high-end meals would fall by the wayside as people struggled to make ends meet. But diners never lost their appetite for a reward after struggling, and restaurateurs opening new but smaller venues found a perfect way to guarantee a set profit per head while making precise buys and avoiding food waste with the omakase-only restaurant.
Some of the restaurants popped up in unusual locations, such as Sushi Fukurou, tucked in a hidden room within the Mexican restaurant Buho Cocina y Cantina. That association led to an omakase merging Japanese, Mexican and Hawaiian flavors.
Islander Sake Brewery got into the act by opening Hanale by Islander Sake, a much glitzier version of their original makeshift sushi bar in Kakaako.
Sushi by Aung had chef Aung Lawalt bring his version of San Francisco meets New York omakase to Honolulu. And over at Waterfront Plaza, former Ohana Hale Marketplace tenant @sushi set up shop showcasing authentic Japanese-style dishes gleaned from his former Michelin-star restaurant owner boss.
Ohana Hale Marketplace tenants went solo: In the relatively short three-and-a-half years that the marketplace was open, it served as an incubator for retailers and restaurants, and its impact on the food scene is felt to this day as many of those startups have been able to open standalone restaurants thanks to their success under a shared roof.
Among those successes is Bo’s Kitchen, now at home on Beretania Street across from the police station in the space that formerly housed Tai Sei Ramen. Bao “Bo” Lei’s initial focus was on rice and noodle dishes to go, and her menu has quadrupled to offer full Cantonese-style meals for those who enjoy dine-in experiences, though soup and sauced and fried noodles still dominate the menu.
Yoas Sorbet & Aquascapes and Ocean Taste moved into a shared space at 2840 Kapiolani Blvd., while Fat Cheeks found a home at Ward Centre and katsu specialist Nana Ai Katsu moved into Kaimuki. Fancy Fresh Fruit Shop set up a market and smoothie shop next door to Dew Drop Inn, with a second location planned for Waikiki.
Spring 2022 saw pandemic restrictions lift and along with it, a return to restaurants en masse, with many making small gatherings with friends their first dining venture in two years. Many experienced sticker shock in the process with increased food costs due to continuing supply shortages and the war in Ukraine.
Shortages were felt elsewhere at the table as climate change led to crop failures including that of Mexican jalapeños, leaving us without precious Sriracha sauce from spring through fall.
The news was good and bad for restaurateurs who welcomed the crowds, if somewhat unprepared due to staffing shortages in front and back of the house that led to slower service.
Many restaurateurs wanted to add hours to meet the demand, but were unable to do so because of the labor shortage that even at year’s end still have the industry asking, “Where have all the workers gone?”
In spite of the difficulties the past three years have brought, restaurateurs have always proven to be a tena cious bunch. Thanks to them, here’s how we dined in 2022:
The sushi omakase kept coming: At the start of the pandemic, I thought high-end meals would fall by the wayside as people struggled to make ends meet. But diners never lost their appetite for a reward after struggling, and restaurateurs opening new but smaller venues found a perfect way to guarantee a set profit per head while making precise buys and avoiding food waste with the omakase-only restaurant.
Some of the restaurants popped up in unusual locations, such as Sushi Fukurou, tucked in a hidden room within the Mexican restaurant Buho Cocina y Cantina. That association led to an omakase merging Japanese, Mexican and Hawaiian flavors.
Islander Sake Brewery got into the act by opening Hanale by Islander Sake, a much glitzier version of their original makeshift sushi bar in Kakaako.
Sushi by Aung had chef Aung Lawalt bring his version of San Francisco meets New York omakase to Honolulu. And over at Waterfront Plaza, former Ohana Hale Marketplace tenant @sushi set up shop showcasing authentic Japanese-style dishes gleaned from his former Michelin-star restaurant owner boss.
Ohana Hale Marketplace tenants went solo: In the relatively short three-and-a-half years that the marketplace was open, it served as an incubator for retailers and restaurants, and its impact on the food scene is felt to this day as many of those startups have been able to open standalone restaurants thanks to their success under a shared roof.
Among those successes is Bo’s Kitchen, now at home on Beretania Street across from the police station in the space that formerly housed Tai Sei Ramen. Bao “Bo” Lei’s initial focus was on rice and noodle dishes to go, and her menu has quadrupled to offer full Cantonese-style meals for those who enjoy dine-in experiences, though soup and sauced and fried noodles still dominate the menu.
Yoas Sorbet & Aquascapes and Ocean Taste moved into a shared space at 2840 Kapiolani Blvd., while Fat Cheeks found a home at Ward Centre and katsu specialist Nana Ai Katsu moved into Kaimuki. Fancy Fresh Fruit Shop set up a market and smoothie shop next door to Dew Drop Inn, with a second location planned for Waikiki.
Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
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