I’ve read stories in which someone peels potatoes at a kitchen table. Seeing the peels pile up is satisfying; it just takes time. Separating moringa leaves from stems is within the same genre. You can strip the leaves by holding the branch lightly, but have never been able to do it without breaking it immediately. Whenever I’ve dealt with moringa, it’s a painstaking process.
When my friend told me he had to trim his moringa bush and wanted to share, I thought of this Filipino soup. The taste is in the ginger and fish sauce. The same flavors could be had with a different leaf, or maybe none at all, but its character is in those dainty leaves. While you could substitute moringa with bok choy, it would not deliver the same sentiment. Moringa is also packed with vitamin C and potassium.
This soup did its job as a comforting, nourishing meal. Traditionally, it would use green papaya, but the butternut squash in my freezer seemed a likely substitute. The squash has much of the same quality as the green papaya when simmered, if not sweeter and more tender. You can substitute the moringa. The bok choy or spinach will add more water to your soup, so season accordingly.
Lastly, I minced the ginger, though I know many prefer the julienned version to give it a stronger flavor.
Tinola Soup with Butternut Squash
Ingredients:
• 1 1/4 pound chicken thighs (bones/skin removed)
• 1 scant teaspoons coarse kosher salt
• 2 tablespoon olive or avocado oil
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 1/2-to-2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and julienned or minced
• 6 cups chicken broth (low-sodium version)
• 1 pound frozen butternut squash, cubed
• 2 cups moringa leaves, stems removed
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce
• Cooked rice for serving, if desired
Directions:
Cut the chicken into small bite-sized pieces — I prefer them to be in somewhat thin strips. Season the chicken with the salt. In a large soup pot with a heavy bottom or a Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat.
When very hot, add the chicken, garlic and ginger. Brown the chicken, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.
Add the chicken broth and the squash. Bring to a simmer and then turn the heat down to low, continuing on a low simmer for 10 minutes or until the squash is tender and the chicken is cooked all the way through. Skim the top if you prefer to have a clearer soup broth.
Add the moringa leaves and the fish sauce, simmering for 2-3 more minutes. Stir and taste, adding more salt or fish sauce as needed. Remove from heat and serve. Add rice to your bowl for serving if you want it to be more filling.
Serves 6.
Mariko Jackson writes about family and food. Email her at thelittlefoodie@gmail.com.
