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The idea of Italian-Asian fusion can be off-putting for those who are tired of being hit on the head with jarring, non-sensical combinations of ingredients over the years — but it’s not like that here, at what is destined to become Honolulu’s hottest sensation, Giovedi (“Thursday” in Italian). Flavors east and west are refined and mesh seamlessly.
It’s the work of chefs Jake Saito, Bao Tran (Stripsteak/ Mad Bene) and Tran’s wife, Jennifer Akiyoshi (Strip-steak), a convivial extension of the small apartment dinner parties Tran and Akiyoshi hosted for friends Thursday evenings while living in New York.
Akiyoshi said they wanted to create the same spirit of friendship and camaraderie through Giovedi, currently a weekend pop-up in search of a permanent home. For now, the pop-up is housed in the second-floor loft of the former Vino restaurant. Access is through the second-floor parking lot at Waterfront Plaza.
The chefs are currently offering a $95 BYOB tasting menu Fridays through Sundays, and are off to an impressive start with a menu that opens with Hokkaido milk rolls with black truffle butter and truffle-infused honey. Even though I am famously resistant to carbs, I couldn’t stop myself from downing two of the soft rolls with generous spreads of truffle butter and honey.
Next came a crudo trio of tuna topped with creamy and textured charred eggplant; marlin topped with Calabrian chile crisp, an Italian twist on the spicy Chinese chile sauce lao gan ma; and octopus with a light touch of aglio olio and sansho pepper. Each offered its own flavor sensation. To start from the mildest to most hard-hitting flavor, I’d begin with the octopus and ahi, finishing with the marlin.
After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, Tran worked at Momofuku Noodle Bar and con tinued working for a series of top New York restaurants including NoMad, the Michelin-starred Carbone and Santina. He also spent time learning the intricacies of Italian cuisine at Ristorante La Dogana in Viareggio, Italy.
Experience working with and seeking out the best ingredients shows in a dish of spaghettini Vietnam amatriciana. The combination of strattu, Sicily’s concentrated sun-dried tomato paste; pasta Martelli with the texture of a housemade pasta; and California Sausage lap xuong, the meat removed from its casing to permeate the dish; with Pecorino Romano is pure magic.
The main course was pan-roasted mu, or bigeye emperor with tuna jus and mustard greens. This fish has a fantastic, velvety texture comparable to snapper with rich flavor the chefs are able to coax out with perfect timing that allows the fish to retain all its moisture. It’s served with Kahumana Farms carrots, Nanatsuboshi and crisped Italian black Venere rice. I loved the textures and inclusion of pine nuts.
I would have been satisfied to have this meal end with the refreshing orange sorbet that followed, but it was just the intermezzo, topped with candied rind. The real dessert was a coffee budino. This Italian pudding incorporates Korean coffee, finished with coconut whipped cream and candied coconut.
I’m hoping they find a permanent home soon.
Giovedi
500 Waterfront Plaza, Honolulu
Food: ****
Service: ****
Ambiance: ****
Value: ****
Call: 808-723-9049 (texts preferred)
Hours: Seatings 7-8:30 p.m. fridays, and 5-8:30 p.m. saturdays and sundays. all reservations are through resy.com.
Prices: Tasting menu about $95 per person; byob
Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
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