A second branch of Shokudo has opened in Kaimuki, but don’t expect Kaimuki Shokudo to be a twin of its sister Shokudo Japanese Restaurant & Bar on Kapiolani Boulevard. It was born with its own concept.

While the original restaurant offers an izakaya selection of sushi, hot dishes and Japanese pastas, the Kaimuki branch focuses on donburi, tempura and contemporary soba trends straight out of Tokyo.

The restaurant is currently open for lunch only but an evening izakaya is in the works, with the aim of an early summer introduction.

Again, the menu will differ from that of the Kapiolani location.

The new restaurant fills the spot formerly occupied by Heiho House, and that restaurant’s eye-catching, hand-built modular interior has been left untouched.

The menu opens simply enough with the hot or cold soba ($9.50) noodles themselves before the add-ons begin with classic niku soba topped with sweet sukiyaki beef, served in your choice of hot or cold broth ($16.50).

The Japanese passion for slimy foods is showcased in the neba-neba cold soba ($16.50) topped with chopped okra, natto and toro ro, or grated yam, which I’m sorry to explain — if you’ve never had it — is like a blanket of mucus. Unappetizing, I know, but over time, I have come to appreciate the healthful, yes, and sticky nature of these ingredients.

The company’s research in Japan led to more trendy and substantial toppings such as thin slices of grilled duck with watercress served in your choice of hot or cold broth ($19), or a fillet of saba, also served in hot or cold broth ($18). Of the two, I thought the saba was more flavorful. The blue mackerel can have a strong fish odor and taste, but this one was flavorful and nicely salted without that ocean pungency.

Oyster soba ($21) comes topped with two pieces of frilly deep-fried oysters. For more crunch, there is tempura soba served hot ($19.50) and kakiage-style vegetable tempura ($18), also served hot.

My favorite of the soba was also the most pricey, at $42: the cold uni soba topped with a large helping of sweet Hokkaido urchin. A perfect combination with the noodles.

The rest of the menu comprises more tempura that can be enjoyed on the side, including an assortment ($11) that includes two pieces of shrimp, kabocha, eggplant and shimeji mushroom. A la carte prices range from $1.50 for the various vegetables to $2.50 for a piece of shrimp or shimeji, and $5 for an oyster. A single piece of the kakiage vegetable fritter of onions, corn, shimeji mushrooms and sea asparagus is $9.

If you prefer rice over soba, four donburi bowls are offered — kakiage ($15), beef sukiyaki ($16.50), assorted tempura ($17), or a combination of king salmon sashimi and ikura ($27.50). I loved the silky nature of the salmon combined with the briny bursts of the salmon roe, and like the uni soba, the priciest donburi was my favorite.

A trio of sushi rolls round out the menu. These are the mermaid ($16) with a center of shrimp tempura and cucumber topped with spicy ahi, unagi sauce, tempura flakes and green onion; unagi avocado ($17) also with shrimp tempura, white sesame seeds and green onion; as well as the torched aburi saba ($17) with a center of shrimp tempura and cucumber, topped with the fish, white sesame seeds and sea asparagus. The torching brings out the fatty, juicy essence of the fish while imparting a beautiful smoky flavor.

That’s it for now, short and sweet. We were hoping for dessert, but that has yet to arrive.

There is a possibility of the original Shokudo’s famous honey toast appearing in a modified version 2.0. Can’t wait
for that day.

Kaimuki Shokudo

1127 11th Ave., Kaimuki
Food: ***½
Service: ****
Ambiance: ****
Value: ****
Call: 808-367-0966
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays
Prices: About $50 to $80 for two; byob until they receive their liquor license

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).