An old favorite still hits the spot

The sad truth about food writing is that over a long period of time of eating anything and everything, the foods that once held you enthralled no longer have the same power to excite, and dining out feels like the same old, same old.

But when a friend mentioned horchata, it was like Pavlov’s signal. Suddenly, the rice milk and cinnamon drink was all I wanted.

Unfortunately, it was a Monday and many Mexican restaurants large and small were closed. I was so disappointed and waited five days to satisfy my craving at the newest Alejandro’s on Kapahulu Avenue.

For years, the original Alejandro’s was everybody’s best-kept secret in Kalihi Valley (haunted Kalihi Valley, I might add).

Having been attacked by an ancient Hawaiian spirit in Kapalua, Maui, and inadvertently brought home a mischievous spirit from Old Pali Road, I am loathe to go to places where I might pick up another one. So the bright, sunny urban setting of the newest Alejandro’s in Kapahulu suits me fine.

The self-serve format is one that has worked for them since the beginning. You go to one counter to order food, and to the bar for alcohol.

Ordering is a simple affair. You’re offered a choice of four meat options — carne asada, pork carnitas, shredded chicken or ground beef — that go into tacos, burritos or Mexi bowls, or atop quesadillas and nachos. Prices vary with your choice of meat.

Tacos a la carte come on 5-inch corn tortillas, at $3.35 for carnitas and ground beef, $3.85 for chicken and $4.10 for carne asada.

There’s also a taco combo plate featuring three street-style flour tortilla tacos plus rice, pinto beans and a fountain drink or a bottle of Jarritos Mexican soda ($3.25). They have the largest selec tion of flavors I have seen on Oahu, one more reason to visit. I ended up with strawberry Jarritos and horchata ($4.50), making it a satisfying, refreshing afternoon.

The taco combo plates range from $13.75 for all carnitas or all beef filling, to $16.25 for all carne asada. Or, mix it up with three different meat options for $14.75. I opted for the latter, choosing the carnitas, chicken and ground beef. The carnitas had a nice crispy grilled finish, while the chicken had a plain and watery consistency. It was best to eat the chicken first while the flour tortilla could hold up to its weight. The ground beef was plain and simple. Hot sauce available at a communal counter might be a necessity for some.

You’re also given add-on options of sour cream ($.75), cheese ($.75), sautéed onions, bell peppers, tomatoes and garlic ($1.50), or avocado ($.75 taco, $1.50 burrito, $2.25 macho burrito).

Maybe other Mexican restaurants are heading in this direction, but this is still one of the few places you have to pay for chips and salsa ($6.75). It might be better to simply go big by starting with an order of nachos ($11.50) that comes loaded with cheese, pinto beans, onions, cilantro, salsa verde, pico de gallo, jalapeños, sour cream and black olives. You can add on meat for a total of $15 to $16.50, but with meat being consumed elsewhere, I thought it was unnecessary. The nachos were my favorite part of the meal.

Burritos form the largest part of the menu, starting with a 10-inch flour tortilla filled with Mexican rice, pinto beans, onions, cilantro, salsa verde and your choice of meat — carnitas and ground beef ($9.50), chicken ($10.50) and carne asada ($11.50).

You can make it a plate with Mexican rice and pinto beans for $2.75 more, and turn it into a wet burrito, doused in a rich, red enchilada sauce for $2.50. Or, do away with the add-on math by simply ordering the wet burrito combo that comes with extra toppings of cheese, sour cream, onions, cilantro and black olives. Prices range from $14.50 with a filling of carnitas or ground beef, to $15.50 for chicken and $16.50 for carne asada.

Macho burritos come swathed in a 12-inch flour tortilla, at $15.75 for a filling of carnitas or ground beef, $16.25 for chicken, and $16.75 for carne asada. Blanket it in enchilada sauce for $2.50 more.

Alejandro’s Mexi bowls may very well be their counterpart to the poke bowl with a base of Mexican rice topped with pinto beans, cheese, onions, cilantro, salsa verde, sour cream and your choice of meat with carnitas and ground beef bowls priced at $9.75, chicken ($10.75) and carne asada ($11.75).

I wish they had some type of dessert available but you can always stroll down to Leonard’s Bakery afterward. For me, the horchata was it.

Alejandro’s Kapahulu

949 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu
Food: ***
Service: Self-service
Ambiance: ***½
Value: ****
Call: 808-888-8090
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays, 4-9 p.m. Sundays
Prices: About $50 for two without alcohol