Roasting shrimp for shrimp cocktail intensifies their sweet saline flavor and makes them exceptionally plump and tender, with less chance of overcooking than the traditional poaching. Then, instead of being paired with the usual bright red cocktail sauce, these shrimp are served with a horseradish-forward take on a classic French rémoulade, which is both bracing and creamy. It’s best to season the sauce to taste: Adding more ketchup makes it sweeter and pinker; more lemon juice makes it tangier; more horseradish makes it sharper.

Roasted Shrimp Cocktail with Horseradish Sauce

Ingredients for the Shrimp:

• 1 pound extra-large (16 to 20 count) shrimp, shelled, deveined if you like

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Ingredients for the Horseradish Sauce:

• 3/4 cup mayonnaise

• 3 tablespoons chopped scallions

• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

• 2 tablespoons prepared white horseradish, plus more to taste

• 1 tablespoon drained capers, finely chopped

• 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice, to taste

• 1 to 2 teaspoons ketchup, to taste

• 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce

• 1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika

Directions:

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Pat shrimp dry. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss shrimp with oil, a pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper. Roast until the shrimp turn pink and opaque, and are cooked through, 6 to 10 minutes. (They shouldn’t curl up, which indicates overcooking.) Remove from the hot baking sheet and place on a plate or serving platter.

Prepare the horseradish sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients, adding a pinch of salt and pepper. Taste, adding more horseradish, lemon juice and ketchup if needed.

Serve shrimp with the sauce for dipping.

Total time: 25 minutes, makes 4-6 appetizer servings.

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