A whole fillet of salmon cut from one side of a fish looks spectacular but takes only a little longer to cook than smaller portions. Crème fraîche spread all over the fish keeps it moist as it roasts and adds a savory richness when a dollop of miso is stirred into the mix. That same pair is gently warmed into a sauce that’s finished with tart citrus juice so that it tastes both creamy and light. This can be served simply with salad and bread or be offered with other vegetables, like potatoes, asparagus or Brussels sprouts.

Roasted Salmon with Miso Cream

Ingredients:

• 1 (2 3/4-pound) whole salmon fillet (skin on or off), patted dry if needed

• Coarse sea or kosher salt

• 1/4 teaspoon ichimi togarashi or ground cayenne

• 1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream (8 ounces)

• 2 tablespoons shiro (white) miso (see Tip)

• 2 teaspoons turbinado or other coarse raw sugar (optional)

• 2 limes

• 1 tablespoon yuzu or lime juice

• Toasted white sesame seeds, for sprinkling

Directions:

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or foil.

Place the salmon on the prepared pan skin (or flat) side down at an angle, if needed, to fit. Sprinkle with salt (about 1 teaspoon) and the togarashi.

In a small saucepan, stir 1/4 cup crème fraîche with 1 tablespoon miso until well blended. Scrape onto the fish (save the pan without washing it), then spread the sauce in an even layer. If you like a little sweetness with your salmon, sprinkle it with the sugar.

Roast the salmon until a thin-bladed paring knife slides through the thickest part with only a little resistance, 15-20 minutes. When you remove the blade from the fish and touch it, it should feel warm.

While the fish roasts, stir the remaining 3/4 cup crème fraîche and 1 tablespoon miso until smooth in the same saucepan. Set over low heat and warm, stirring occasionally, until steaming and tiny bubbles form around the edges, about 5 minutes. Don’t let the mixture boil. Turn the heat to the lowest setting to keep warm.

Using the parchment or foil, lift the roasted salmon onto a serving platter, then slide the parchment or foil out from under the fish. Zest the limes all over the fish, then squeeze 1 tablespoon juice, if using lime juice. Stir the yuzu or lime juice into the miso cream, then transfer to a serving bowl to serve alongside the salmon. (Or, if your salmon is skinless, pour the sauce around the salmon.)

Sprinkle the salmon with sesame seeds. Cut the zested limes into wedges and serve with the fish.

Total time: 30 minutes, serves 8.

Tip:

You also can use red or brown miso, but they’re both saltier. If using, you’ll want to sprinkle the salmon more lightly with salt.