I was invited to visit the Willamette Valley for Oregon Pinot Camp in mid-May, and I think I’m only now starting to recover. During the four-day jam-packed schedule, I joined 268 other campers from around the world for winery and vineyard tours, tastings, seminars, decadent meals and way too much wine. Although my love for pinot noir came under siege after about the 200th sampling — apparently, you can have too much of a good thing — I was constantly reminded that wine has the power to bring people together.
A love of wine was the only common thread among each camper, as our group varied drastically in vocation, experience and age — which directly corresponded with our tolerance for hangovers (like I said, it was a lot of wine).
Those stark differences melted away after the first glass of the day was poured (and some ibuprofen) as we were imbued by our excitement to learn and our willingness to both share and listen.
One winery in Oregon that espouses this ethos is Lingua Franca. The name is derived from a universal language named after the Franks in the Middle Ages that was used along the trade routes and diplomatic processions to allow people from diverse cultures to communicate with one another.
During my trip, I spent some time in their vineyards with their people and before my plane touched down back in the islands, I was already on my phone trying to procure as much wine as they would allow.
Lingua Franca, “Avni,” Chardonnay
The people involved in this project from vineyard management, winemaking and sales, reads like a hall of fame ballot, but co-founder and master sommelier Larry Stone might be chief among them.
Stone was one of the pioneers who legitimized the sommelier position as an occupation, and it shows in the wine’s affinity for the table.
It has enough of a citrus tang to accompany lighter fare at the start of the meal but is rich and round enough to accompany your entrée — my favorite being a simple rotisserie chicken with sautéed mushrooms in lemon and butter.
If you are unfamiliar with Oregon chardonnay, use this as your rubric.
Cost: About $40/bottle.
Lingua Franca, “Avni,” Pinot Noir
You can’t mention Lingua Franca without also speaking frankly about the place.
No ugly place in the world can make great wine, and the estate vineyard is no exception. It is nested in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, a name derived from the Greek god of winds. These winds reduce berry size and force the grape to develop thicker skins which tend to result in deeper color, brighter flavors and more rustic tannins.
This is countered by the volcanic soil (avni means “stone,” which underlines the importance of soil) in which the grapes are grown.
Volcanic soils usually lend a lighter color and a light red fruit profile to the wine.
The result is a complex, highly aromatic wine with juicy sweetness and savory spice in one sip. It is a true standout, among the abundance of outstanding Oregon pinot noir.
Cost: About $40/bottle.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning master sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
