A Hui Hou, Nadine

Nadine Kam, who passed away Sept. 6 at the age of 63, has been a longtime restaurant critic, known for a career of covering the local restaurant industry, most recently in her Crave column “Nadine Eats Hawaii.” She will be deeply missed. Mahalo, Nadine, for all you did for our community. This week, we’d like to share a few of Nadine’s highest-rated restaurant reviews:

A trendy ramen shop

“What’s most surprising about Camado Ramen Tavern (320 Lewers St.) is the way the company went against the tide of chasing the new and trendy in favor of stepping backward in time for a nostalgic trip back to Japan of the late Showa era of the 1970s to ’90s. More than strictly a ramen shop, the restaurant also brings something new to Honolulu via appetizers that capture the essence of Japanese-style Chinese restaurants that started appearing around that time. What I love is flavor to the max that comes with the creamy, sesame tantanmen, and tonkotsu chashu ramen with its rich eight-hour pork broth.”

Waikiki’s newest izakaya

“An izakaya opening in Honolulu is always a happy occasion, but generally not a big deal because we’re accustomed to the presence of the Japanese bars. But it is a big deal when the principal involved is Chris Kajioka, the Per Se alum we got to know through his work at Vintage Cave, Senia, Miro Kaimuki and Waicoco.

“In the izakaya half of Agaru’s (355 Royal Hawaiian Ave. Ste. 200) restaurant, a la carte dining is available, but the easiest way to approach the menu is to start with the $65 set course, and in the true sense of the word “omakase,” trust the chef. The menu can always be augmented with a handful of a la carte specialties and dessert. With such an auspicious start into izakaya territory, one has to wonder what Kajioka might do next.”

A memorable cocktail omakase

“Bar Maze (604 Ala Moana Blvd.) takes its ambition to the next level with a fully integrated food and cocktail omakase menu. The name is an abbreviation of the Japanese word “mazeru,” meaning “to mix or stir.”

Unlike restaurants where prix fixe meals have an optional drink pairing menu, there is no uncoupling of the two here, reinforcing the idea that neither is complete without the other as a crowning touch.

“I would love to make a quick return, but I realize that it would be selfish to deprive someone else of a rare available seat.”

Kelli Shiroma Braiotta’s column features a variety of tips and insider knowledge about Oahu’s dining scene. Follow Kelli on Instagram (@kellishiromabraiotta).