Reports of Kokua Market’s demise have been greatly exaggerated.

Honolulu’s only food cooperative for 52 years in Moiliili closed in September after decades of financial struggle, and it appeared to be permanent when all inventory was liquidated. But the market’s Nov. 30 newsletter announced, “We’re Baaaack!”

Since mid-November, Kokua Market’s board and a phalanx of volunteers have been quietly resurrecting the natural foods store in Palolo Valley inside the new Hapa Market &Grill, still under renovation. Both businesses are in the old Palolo Laundry Center building at 1720 Palolo Ave. and plan to be fully operational in January. Kokua Market held a soft opening last month.

The market’s new lease on life was made possible by Ignacio Fleishour, a chef, hunter and owner of Makana Provisions, known for its Molokai-harvested venison and other meat products. Fleishour set up a butcher shop and deli at the old Kokua Market in 2021 to stimulate sales and provide a convenient pickup spot for his wholesale clients. But now the tables have turned, and Hapa Market &Grill has asked Kokua Market to be part of Fleishour’s plan to establish a nutritious food hub in Palolo, which he considers a “food desert.”

Donna Ching, a Kokua Market board member and spokesperson, said, “Our values are in alignment. The spirit and culture of the two business are very simpatico, which is providing sustainable food for Hawaii.” She added, “The decision to try a scaled-down operation in Palolo at Iggy’s came after the early September decision to close.”

Kokua’s board members agreed on a yearlong trial period but are optimistic that the market will succeed, especially with a markedly lower rent than they paid at its former South King Street location, Ching said.

“We did it before,” she said, referring to when the market nearly shut down for good in 2018. With the lights already turned off and the shelves emptied, members, co-owners and supporters somehow managed a “Miracle on 34th Street” storybook comeback when they raised about $170,000, Ching said. Presently, the co-op is uncertain about how many members are active, but she estimated it has between 1,500 and 2,000.

Melissa Benjamin, a member for several years, said she was crushed when she thought the closure of the old store meant a final demise. She mainly cooks plant-based meals and is always buying fresh, seasonal produce. She said it was the only place she could buy items such as Nozawa’s corn from the North Shore, Shintaku tomatoes from Hauula, J. Ludovico Farm’s chicken and hard-to-find Rancho Gordo beans from California.

“I love the notion of local ingredients, and that’s what Kokua does so well. I love the mission of it and the fact that they are trying to support small producers who are working so hard to grow or create their things and don’t have the wherewithal to sit at farmers markets at a stand or know how to get their products to market. It feels good to support people like that.”

“I was thrilled when I found out that they would reopen close to me,” Benjamin said, adding that she thinks Palolo Valley needs a convenient place to buy fresh food.

Ching attributed the market’s survival over the decades to all its loyal members, customers, farmers and local vendors who were willing to do anything to keep the operation going, and they came through once again. They stepped in to liquidate the inventory and clean the old store before it closed, and now they’re keeping the new location open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.

“The goodwill is bankable,” she said. “No one is getting paid; it’s all being done for love.”

Fleishour said his main reason for helping the co-op is to support the farmers he met at the old market. They told him they appreciated bringing their products to the market because they got a fair price and didn’t have to go through any brokers.

“We’re just passionate about the food system and making sure it’s equitable and the farmers and ranchers get a fair shake and fair price for their products,” he said.

As for Makana Provisions, he said, “The focus of our business is to help ranchers steward all the deer on Molokai. And I believe there should be more competition in the meat industry.”

With the help of his brother and nephew, Fleishour is constructing a fully equipped U.S. Department of Agriculture-approved factory in the rear of the 4,500-square-foot-building with a USDA inspector to be on-site full time. He eventually hopes to employ 30 local workers, bring in bison and elk directly from Native American communities and ship in fresh wild salmon from Alaska daily.

Palolo Avenue is a bit out of the way, but Kokua Market and Makana both have followings, he said. His customers used to drive out to a Kapolei meat plant where he was formerly located or whenever he held pop-ups in other locations.

“I usually stay 20% lower than everybody else,” Fleishour said, referring to his price point. “People gotta eat and get a fair price.”

Currently, Makana has a sale on venison and is taking orders for beef a week in advance until the end of the month, and has opened a small coffee bar. On Saturdays only, Hapa Market &Grill serves grilled burgers and chili from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

When fully operational, the plan is to serve some breakfast items, lunch and dinner, and sell venison, beef and pork mostly from local sources. Also available will be value-added meats with a long shelf life, like jerkies made without nitrates and processed sugars.

Kokua Market’s shelves are now only half-stocked, but once the co-op it is fully operable, it will sell fresh produce, bulk items and organic bakery items, though “our grocery footprint will be significantly lower,” Ching said. The market will carry items like Rancho Gordo beans and organic products that can’t be found anywhere else. Cold grab-­and-go items will be available as well.

For more information, call 808-838-9315.