The pandemic lockdowns have been an unexpected boon to the local kimchi business.
Mike Irish, owner of Halm’s Enterprises, who’s earned the nickname “Kimchi King” of Hawaii, says the spicy side dish is an inexpensive and versatile way to round out a meal.
“When everybody had to stay at home, we’re one of the cheapest things you can buy and make a meal out of — you know, kimchi fried rice, Spam, Vienna sausage.”
Halm’s, the maker of the ever-popular Halm’s Kim Chee, has eight kimchi brands in its cache of spicy fermented products, acquired from aging owners of longtime companies that would otherwise have closed.
With each company, Irish inherited some of the workers, who brought their valuable expertise, he added. “Everything is still done by hand.”
Joe Kim’s — a company that dates back to 1938 — was the latest addition to his company in 2018. Its product line included head cabbage and won bok kimchi, plus takuan.
Halm’s Enterprises, formed in 1984, also encompasses Keoki’s Lau Lau and Diamond Head Seafood Co. Irish, who is half-Korean, established his business by buying Park’s Brand Products, and the venerable Halm’s Kim Chee in 1985.
While delivering his products to stores, Irish would run into aging owners of other companies, like Kohala Kim Chee and High Max Kim Chee, who heard he had taken over the other longtime kimchi makers. One by one, they asked him to buy them out, because their children weren’t interested in taking over, he said.
Irish also acquired several sauce and takuan (pickled daikon) labels. In 2019 he purchased Mid Pac Foods in Kaimuki, which has been making Chinese sauces for more than 50 years, Irish said.
Among all his kimchi brands, won bok sells best, he said, with head cabbage and cucumber coming in second. Each brand produces several products that include various vegetables and levels of heat. The hottest kimchis, Irish said, may be found under the Kohala and High Max brand names.
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