Now that pandemic restrictions are easing, it’s a sheer joy to gather friends around the table again. After months of distancing, a small dinner party feels every bit like a holiday.
For a light, flavorful celebratory meal, think fish. For that matter, think wild salmon, whose superior taste and brilliant color make an easy choice. Yes, it’s a splurge, but so very worth it.
I’m so infatuated with the taste of wild salmon that I consider it a seasonal treat and don’t bother with the ubiquitous farmed kind. But some prefer aquaculture salmon, with its mild flavor and higher fat content. For curiosity’s sake, I tested the recipe that accompanies this column with conventional farmed salmon, organic farmed salmon and wild salmon. I may have been biased, but all of my fellow testers agreed that the wild salmon was the best choice.
Among many wild salmon lovers, a purist approach prevails. For them, the only seasoning is salt, maybe pepper. I take their point, but salmon doesn’t have to go completely naked to be sublime. In fact, judicious seasoning that doesn’t overwhelm adds interest. In this case, crushed fennel seed, coarse black pepper and Dijon mustard lightly coat the fish, lending a nice contrast to the salmon’s innate sweetness.
This recipe features a French-style spring vegetable stew, or ragoût, to accompany the salmon. Asparagus, two kinds of peas, cauliflower florets and scallions are gently simmered with butter and a splash of water.
Though delicious just as it is, I wanted to give the vegetables a bit of a kick. Employing an oft-used Indian technique, I sizzled brown mustard seeds and chopped serrano chile in a little oil and spooned the mixture over the stew to supply a welcome spicy finish, lifting the stew from ordinary to superlative.
Seasoned, Mustard Salmon with a Hearty Side of Vegetable Stew
Ingredients:
• 1 1/2 pounds boneless, skin-on, center-cut salmon filet
• Kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon coarse, crushed fennel seed (use a mortar or spice mill)
• 1/2 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium fennel bulb, diced
• 1 pound medium asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths
• 1 cup sugar snap peas, topped, tailed and halved crosswise
• 1 cup English peas, shucked
• 2 cups cauliflower, cut into florets
• 6 medium scallions, white and green parts, sliced at an angle in 1/4-inch lengths
• 1 tablespoon safflower oil or other vegetable oil
• 1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
• 1 serrano chile, finely chopped, to taste
• 1 tablespoon tarragon, chopped
• 2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Directions:
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Sprinkle salmon on both sides with kosher salt. Place skin-side down in a low baking dish. Sprinkle top of fish with fennel and black pepper. Smear mustard evenly over the surface. Leave for at least 10 minutes to absorb seasoning.
Bake salmon, uncovered, just until white juices surface at sides and top, 10-15 minutes.
Remove and let rest for 5 minutes.
Make the vegetable stew: Set a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Melt butter, then add the fennel. Season lightly with salt. Let fennel cook without browning, stirring frequently until just done, about 5 minutes.
Add asparagus, sugar snap peas, shucked peas, cauliflower, scallions and a pinch of salt.
Stir to combine and add 1/4 cup water. Raise heat to high and cover pot.
Cook for 5 minutes, until vegetables are tender-crisp. Turn off heat and transfer vegetables to a serving dish.
In a tiny skillet, heat oil over medium-high. When oil is wavy, add mustard seeds and serrano chile, and stir together. When mustard seeds begin to pop, pour contents of skillet over the vegetable stew. Top with tarragon and parsley. Place a piece of salmon on a warmed plate; spoon some vegetables over and around it.
Total time: 45 minutes, serves 4.
