The pandemic set a round of restaurant musical chairs in motion, as some shut down or relocated, and new ones rushed in to take their places. A few weeks ago, I wrote about Bourbon Street, which moved into the longtime site of The Mandalay on Alakea Street. Downtown Honolulu’s loss turned out to be Kaimuki’s gain as The Mandalay reopened on Waialae Avenue in the space that had been home to many a short-lived restaurant over the years.

After running The Mandalay for more than 28 years, Larry and Linda Chan could have opted to retire in light of the pandemic’s blow to the restaurant industry. They had been accustomed to welcoming dim sum fans, as well as running a bustling banquet business that disappeared with government-mandated restrictions on group gatherings.

But for a couple rooted in hospitality, it was inconceivable for the Chans to simply walk away. Instead of closing, they chose to downsize into a space where they could continue to welcome friends and perhaps draw just enough business to break even. They also managed to pick up the chef from Beijing Restaurant when it closed, preserving that restaurant’s upscale legacy as well.

Operating at a reduced capacity, with a minimalist, all-day Cantonese-style menu of dim sum and a handful of greatest hits entrées they served at their old location, they’ve already managed to find an audience willing to move at their more leisurely pace.

For diners, that means accepting that you’ll probably be walking away with takeout by day because of limited seating and a no-reservation policy, save for parties of 10, plus early dinners because they advertise their closing time is at 6 p.m.

But, as the restaurant feels its way through the pandemic, policies remain fluid. The restaurant has been accommodating up to four parties of 10 in the evening — in three private rooms and the main dining room — working with diners ahead of time to come up with a desired menu that’s more elaborate than the regular one. It allows the Chans to play their part as gracious hosts, without the added stress of unpredictable walk-in traffic and demands.

Those who frequent Cantonese restaurants have been accustomed to nearly 200-item menus. Here, the list of entrées numbers 19, augmented by 18 dim sum offerings. I believe The Mandalay is the first locally to offer dim sum by the single piece, eliminating the awkwardness of four people sharing three pieces, or having to place double orders to ensure each person has a piece.

The requisite pork dumpling ($1.35 per piece) is meaty, not mushy, full of diced pork and large pieces of shrimp that leaves you feeling like you’re really getting your money’s worth of quality ingredients.

Barbecue pork buns ($1.85) — fluffy, white bao filled with candied pork — are among the most popular items. The shrimp-chive dumplings ($1.85) differ from the soft steamed versions at other restaurants. Here, they are pan-fried at the finish, leaving the thin skins especially crispy on the bottom of the rounded dumplings, delivering a pleasant, crackly crunch with each bite.

The only disappointment on this side of the menu was an order of xiao long bao (five pieces $8.95) because the Shanghai-style soup dumplings had very little soup in them. Even so, the pork filling was tasty.

The entrée side of the menu includes staples like kung pao chicken ($13.95), beef broccoli ($13.95), minute chicken chow mein ($13.95) and mapo tofu with ground pork ($13.95), which are generally considered to be crowd pleasers. I did enjoy the tender cuts of salt and pepper pork chops ($13.95) and the honey walnut shrimp ($19.95) contrasts the springy shrimp and the crisp, airy crunch of fresh walnuts without an overly heavy coating of sweetened mayo.

Vegetable dishes like green beans with ground pork ($13.95), choi sum with garlic and oyster sauce ($12.95) and noodle dishes round out the menu.

If you’re lucky, The Mandalay may have a few specialty items available like crisp-skinned Peking duck ($38 whole) or freshly made char siu. It doesn’t hurt to ask on the spot, but it helps to place an order for these a day ahead.

The restaurant shines in creating special menus for larger parties. Some items I would suggest to start would be lobster yi mein, black pepper steak with meaty eryngii mushrooms and, one of my absolute favorite dishes, shrimp paste chicken wings.

The briny harm har aroma may be too much for non-seafood lovers to handle, but it is sheer heaven to the Chinese soul.

The Mandalay

3008 Waialae Ave., Honolulu
Food: ***½
Service: ****
Ambiance: ***½
Value: ****
Call: 808-525-8585
Hours: 11 a.M.-6 p.M.
Wednesdays to Mondays
Prices: About $45-$50 for two; byob until The Mandalay gets its liquor license

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu