Once confined to a small circle of wine geeks, the “natural wine” craze has become mainstream, and things are getting out of hand.
The overarching principle behind natural wine is that the grapes are both grown and made with minimal human intervention — nothing added, and nothing taken away.
The intentions in the beginning of the movement were pure. It was a necessary response to the evils of over manipulation of wines (you’d be surprised at what is legally allowed) and a push to support passionate farmers — a call to arms for the “little guys.”
That movement, once spurred by gentle shepherds, is now bolstered by the voices of the loudest, which often include the most divisive. It is important to know that “natural wine” has no legal definition, and its meaning is hotly debated, even among its own proponents.
In our millennial haste to support the newest trends and be the most woke person in the room, we have forgotten what it is like to treat each other with kindness and be more mindful of our own decisions. I’ve seen the same people who protest drinking anything other than the most natural of wines pick up their groceries at big box stores or get drunken munchies from a fast-food chain. It’s the same thing.
My solution: when selecting a wine, be specific on what causes you are trying to support (hand-harvesting, small production, family-owned, minimal water usage, etc.) and what tastes you like. You don’t need to drink something just because it’s “natural.” There is already a natural wine that exists that aligns with your tastes that might not even advertise it’s “natural” and whose principles also align with yours. Also, try not to kill anyone’s vibe for liking the things that bring them joy. What I drink doesn’t get you buzzed.
With Birichino, you don’t need to sacrifice great taste for your principles. They are my personal definition of everything a great “natural wine” should be.
Birichino, Pétulant Naturel Pinot Noir, Santa Clara Valley
“Pétulant Naturel,” or “pet nat” for short, is the most visible category of natural wine. It refers to a wine that is bottled before fermentation is complete. This unpredictable way of creating the bubbles results in each bottle taking on a slightly different personality. It’s a wild, sparkling version of Pinot Noir but it is more akin to kombucha than wine.
Sediment (or floaties) is completely natural and adds texture while acting as an antioxidant. For this reason, store the bottle upright to settle the sediment at the bottle. It isn’t harmful but is absolutely an acquired taste — though it might have an automatic following of fans of hazy IPAs. It works with all food, and as a starter, intermezzo, or nightcap. I like it best at the grill with sausage and zucchini/ eggplant or with soft-ripened or bloomy cheeses, like brie, for dessert.
Cost: $25/bottle.
Birichino, “Car Car Glou Glou Akashita,” Old Vine Carignane, Montague Vineyard
“Glou Glou” is a term associated with wine that you can drink in large gulps and quantities, and is the onomatopoeia for “glug glug.” It’s straight-up crunchy red fruit deliciousness and the perfect mix of a fresh and floral nouveau/ early-drinking wine and a more serious, savory one.
The label depicts the Japanese yokai (supernatural spirit) Akashita, who is viewed as a protective spirit of farmers and water rights — or a demon, if one were to misuse or steal water in times of drought — which serves to highlight Birichino’s reverence toward the land and vision for sustainability. Itadakimasu, indeed.
Cost: $25/bottle.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
