Hearty cooking greens is how I classify kale, chard and collards, each one distinctive in its earthy, rustic and slightly bitter flavor and each one a nutritional powerhouse.

Kale is a very ancient form of cultivated cabbage that does not form a head. There are many varieties of kale at farmers markets these days: curly kale, with its frilly, dark leaves, is probably the most familiar; Tuscan or dinosaur kale, with its elongated puckered leaves; and Russian Red, with its silvery green, lacy leaves and red ribs. Smaller, more petite Nagoya kale, sometimes tinged bright pink, is popping up, too.

For all kale varieties, wash the leaves and then remove the leaves from their stems; stems are tough to eat even if cooked well. Use young kale leaves raw for salads but older leaves are more appealing when cooked.

Collards are a close cousin of kale with a flavor between cabbage and kale. The leaves are thick, dense and sturdy, and the stems should be removed before cooking. You can use blanched collards as a wrapper like cabbage or grape leaves.

In the South, collards are cooked long and slow with fatty pork or bacon for a classic dish. It’s a perfect combination since a little fat helps the body absorb the nutritional elements in greens like collards, kale and chard.

Unlike kale and collards, chard should be eaten in its entirety, though you may want to cook stems separately because they take a little longer to cook than the leaves. Those bright yellow, red and white stems are crunchy, adding a nice textural element alongside the green tops.

Kale, chard and collards are rich in beta-carotene for good vision, vitamin K for strong bones and vitamin C for general good health. Chard is rich in magnesium, a mineral that reduces the risk of diabetes and stroke and lowers blood pressure. Collards are an excellent source of fiber. All contain antioxidant properties that help fight cancer and reduce the risk of heart disease.

Each of these greens can be chopped for a raw salad or sauteed with innumerable ingredients such as garlic, onions, raisins, black beans, chili peppers and oyster sauce. They are welcome additions to hearty soups and pasta dishes and perfect for a gratin in this season of potlucks and buffets.

Gratin adds healthy dose of greens to the holidays  

A gratin or casserole of hearty greens might just be the answer for a make-ahead dish that ensures everyone gets a healthy dose of greens in this season of indulgent foods.

The key to this gratin recipe is a smooth and lovely sauce called bechamel, the classic French white sauce. Bechamel is versatile and delicious with both vegetables and pasta (add cheese for macaroni and cheese). You can make it lighter in calories by using 2 percent or skim milk, or richer by using half-and-half or cream for a portion of the milk. 

Yes, there’s a little fat in bechamel, but it will help your body absorb the vitamins that are plentiful in the greens. In fact, you could add 1 cup of grated cheese to the bechamel for a richer dish.

This gratin would make a terrific vegetarian dish, or, as a one-dish meal, you could add some diced ham, sauteed sausage or cooked chicken.

GRATIN OF HEARTY GREENS
2 to 2-1/2 pounds kale, chard or collards, or a combination 
1 large onion
1 tablespoon butter
Bechamel sauce (recipe follows)
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese or toasted bread crumbs

Wash greens; remove stems from kale and collard; discard. Cut away stems from chard; reserve stems. Place greens in a large covered pan to steam; the water on the leaves should be sufficient for steaming. Steam until wilted, about 4 to 5 minutes. Uncover and allow to cool.

While vegetables are cooling, chop onion into a fine dice. In small frying pan, heat butter and cook onion until translucent. Transfer to ovenproof 1-1/2- to 2-quart casserole.

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

When vegetables are cool, chop leaves (and chard stems) into bite-size pieces. Squeeze out liquid. (You should have about 3 packed cups of chopped greens.) Place vegetables in casserole dish and toss with onion. Pour bechamel over vegetables and mix well. Top with cheese or breadcrumbs. Bake 30 minutes or until top is browned. Serves 6.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving (based on Parmesan and not including salt to taste from bechamel): 260 calories, 13 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 30 mg cholesterol, 350 mg sodium, 28 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 13 g protein

BECHAMEL SAUCE
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste

In medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Add flour and whisk together. Cook 2 to 3 minutes over medium-low heat, whisking the whole time. Flour needs to cook but the mixture (called a roux) should not turn brown.

Add milk a little at a time, mixing into roux with whisk. Once milk is incorporated, continue to cook mixture until it is bubbling. Add nutmeg and season with salt and pepper. Blend well and remove from heat. Makes about 2 cups.

Approximate nutritional information, per cup serving (not including salt to taste): 250 calories, 18 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 200 mg sodium, 16 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 11 g sugar, 8 g protein

Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S., a nutritionist in the Department of Human Nutrition, Food and Animal Science, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources, University of Hawaii-Manoa.