It was a sad day when the last Agu Ramen Bistro closed its doors. Now where would I get my fix of Innovative Hot Mess, a ramen so rich with pork fat, black garlic oil and a 4-inch mound of fresh, finely grated Parmesan, that for longevity’s sake I couldn’t eat more than one every four to six months.
It was a question that came up during the recent rainy weather, perfect for a soul-warming bowl of ramen, and the perfect time to check out the newest Tanaka Ramen & Izakaya (no relation to Iwilei’s Tanaka Saimin). It’s at Ala Moana Center where Agu once stood, on the mall level, mauka side. Tanaka’s first location, opened at Kapolei Marketplace last June, is doing well despite the pandemic. A third shop is set to open at Pearlridge Center in April.
The growing chain launched in Chicago in 2017, then opened in Houston and Atlanta before landing in Hawaii. Owner Tina Wang, originally from Northeast China, attended the University of Hawaii and started graduate school in Iowa. During time off she’d go exploring in nearby big cities such as Minneapolis and Chicago.
In 2014, the ramen lover noticed a ramen scene just taking root, with only about 10 shops. Although neither she, her family nor friends had any background in food service, she saw opportunity, left school and sought out a mentor to train her in the Japanese style of ramen making. Her search led to a Japanese master who had retired to Los Angeles and agreed to share his recipes and menu ideas. Her shops now bear his name, though she said she is not allowed to use his first name because he wants to enjoy his retirement in peace.
Wang said the recipes haven’t changed with the opening of new locations. “That would be fusion. We do authentic Japanese ramen.”
Tanaka’s specialty is a classic 12-hour, pork-based tonkotsu ramen. Staffers recommend starting with the Tanaka Classic ($14.80) before moving on to more adventurous options. It’s so rich and flavorful, some may never feel the need to look elsewhere. This basic offering is not so basic, featuring bean sprouts, soft egg, green onions, wood ear mushrooms, garlic oil, fried onions and pork chashu, with curly noodles that are twice as thick as others’ in town. They hold up well to the weighty broth.
Of course I had my eye on the tonkotsu with garlic and cheese ($18.80) because I love the heft of this dish. Those who remember Agu’s version will note the challenge in living up to Agu’s 18-hour broth, black garlic and freshly grated Parmesan, versus the powdery cheese at Tanaka. But in the big picture, the combo is still mighty tasty and worth a try for those who can stomach rich foods.
On the lighter side, tori (chicken- based broth) offerings include spicy ($13.80) and wonton ($14.80) versions, as well as Ala Moana Center exclusives of yuzu ($13.80) and chile-cilantro ($12.80). Thin noodles are used with the tori ramens.
Within the mix, greens eaters are not forgotten. A vegan spicy, creamy ramen ($14.80) includes kale noodles that leave you feeling guilt-free; a vegetarian dan dan bowl ($13.50) subs cauliflower and broccoli for the usual pork.
If none of the standard bowls appeal, build your own bowl with a soup and noodle combination starting at $7 (add $1 for kale noodles). From there, various toppings can be added for $1 to $3 each. At the low end is butter or black garlic oil. At the high end, choose from ingredients such as chicken wontons, chicken or pork chashu, pork gyozas or beef sukiyaki.
The ramen is not the only story. On the izakaya side are tempting dishes likely to prompt return trips to explore the entire menu. Start with the pork gyoza ($6.99), a ramen restaurant standard. I liked the juicy pork and the way the meat is so tightly packed within the delicate wraps, not shrunken within flabby, airy pockets.
There’s a lot to enjoy, but my favorite sides include the crispy soft shell crab in bao bun ($6.99) with cucumber, lettuce and spicy aioli, and a spicy version of cold tofu salad ($7.99) in a chile-sesame sauce, topped with green onions and plenty of bonito flakes for added umami.
The restaurant recently launched happy hour from 2 to 6 p.m. weekdays, with smaller portions of the izakaya items at $3 to $5, as well as a handful of draft beers ($4), hot sakes ($5) and wines by the glass ($6).
Considering much of the menu is carb-laden or deep-fried, Brussels sprouts ($7.99) provide some green relief, but these are also lightly tempura-fried, made even more delicious with a touch of white truffle oil.
Takoyaki ($6.99) was doughy, but some may enjoy the flavor bombs that sit on a bed of egg tartar sauce and come layered with Kewpie mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce and smoked bonito flakes.
A few of the items seemed to bear a taste of Northern China, with cumin sprinkled on fries ($5.99) and crispy chicken wings ($7.99). There are plain ($4.50) and truffle fries ($5.99) as well.
I enjoyed fried oysters ($6.99) that stayed crispy even after bowls of ramen were finished, and tempura rock shrimp ($7.99) coated in spicy mayo.
A handful of rice and curry bowls round out the menu, and to finish there are desserts of mochi ice cream ($1.99 per piece) and yuzu cheesecake ($5.99), but I never made it that far. Ramen is quite filling.
TANAKA RAMEN & IZAKAYA
Ala Moana Center mall level, mauka side
Food: ***1/2
Service: ****
Ambiance: **1/2
Value: ***1/2
>> Call: (707) 506-6818
>> Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
>> Prices: About $40 to $50 for two
Ratings compare similar restaurants:
**** – excellent
*** – very good
** – average
* – below average
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.
