Recently we held a dinner with two highly revered winemakers from Italy. As expected, their wines were compelling and interesting, but it was the conversation we had that I found particularly thought-provoking.
The topic of that discussion was purity in wine. We have seen many stainless fermented wines from around the world enter the Hawaii market. These wines display a purity and a bright-eyed, bushy-tailed refreshing quality.
But after talking with the Italian winemakers, I came to understand that, for them, purity originates from the soil that vines and roots grow in rather than simply the essence of any given grape variety.
To parallel something familiar to isle residents, imagine the distinction between the Kula onion and an onion grown in neighboring Makawao. The quality of the soil makes all the difference.
In some cases, Europeans have had centuries to figure out the locale of those special plots of land. This is why so many standout wines are named after their place of origin rather than the grape variety.
The secret to maximizing the potential of "somewhere-ness" is by planting the right genetic plant material and farming it with passion and dedication. When this works, the soil’s influence is at the forefront of a wine’s aroma, rather than the specific grape variety used in its production.
In line with this approach, for the summer months, I therefore look to white and pink wines that have been grown in marine soils (soils with sand and limestone, for instance).
Marine soils often add minerality to a wine, which lends lightness and an ethereal quality in addition to a crisp and refreshing edge. As such, these wines are ideal for hot-weather sipping.
To experience what this means, go to your favorite wine store and purchase a New Zealand sauvignon blanc and a sauvignon blanc from France’s Loire Valley. To help you along, consider the Regis Minet Pouilly Fume, the Daniel Chotard Sancerre or the Domaine du Salvard Cheverny.
Pour a glass of each, and smell and taste them side by side.
This exercise is not intended for ranking the wines. Rather, it’s to get a sense of their qualities and distinctions.
Try this with other grape varieties as well. It’s an opportunity to learn.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.
