Even though we enjoy warm weather year-round in Hawaii, summer in particular invokes thoughts of ice-cold refreshing drinks. When temperatures rise, something light, crisp and low in alcohol is a great thirst quencher, and the German-style ale called kolsch is the perfect fit.

The kolsch style was created in Cologne, Germany, but in recent years it’s popularity has skyrocketed with U.S. brewers. With its approachable flavor and clean, dry finish, a kolsch-style beer is the quintessential brew for summer, and there are many versions in Hawaii.

For decades the kolsch style was little known outside Cologne. The style is so unique to the city that it is protected by a regional appellation by the German government, similar to those created for distinct wine-growing regions in Europe. About 20 breweries in the region are legally allowed to call their beers kolsch. They all follow guidelines set by the Kolsch Convention, which was formed in 1948.

American brewers eventually discovered the style and are giving it a new life. You’ll find many American beers using the term kolsch because the appellation control applies solely in Germany. Sometimes they’ll be labeled a blonde, pale ale or summer ale, but are brewed in the kolsch style.

So what makes a kolsch style different from other pale beers, such as a pilsner? Kolsch-style beers are fermented with ale yeast (pilsners use lager yeast), which gives it a distinct but subtle fruit flavor and aroma. Similar to pilsners, kolsch styles enjoy a long cellaring process at near freezing temperatures after fermentation is complete. This helps flavors meld and clarifies the beer to a crystal clarity.

This summer we have access to a fantastic, locally brewed kolsch-style offering by Maui Brewing Co. Kihei Kolsch celebrates the opening of its new brewing facility and was recently released statewide in cans ($9.99/six-pack, Tamura’s Fine Wines and Liquors). To pay homage to its German roots, the can features bands of black, red and gold, the colors of the German flag.

Kihei Kolsch pours a straw yellow with a bubbly white head. Its high effervescence helps the bright aromas of wheat, apples and pears jump out of the glass. A mellow bready flavor is balanced by a subtle hop spiciness.

Brewers at Maui Brewing decided to put their own stamp on this beer by adding untraditional American hops to the ingredient list.

“We used a blend of German noble hops and American hops, specifically Citra, that gives the beer a unique twist in an American craft beer,” said brewmaster Darren Moser.

Citra hops add a hint of lingering grapefruit and tangerine notes that, combined with a dry finish, make this beer enjoyable. Low in alcohol at only 5.2 percent by volume, it is thirst-quenching and flavorful.

Jump on the kolsch bandwagon. The rewards are so good you won’t regret it.

Here are other U.S. kolsch-style beers to explore. All are available at Whole Foods Markets and Tamura’s Fine Wines and Liquors:

» Occidental Brewing Kolsch
» Worthy Brewing Easy Day Kolsch
» Sierra Nevada Brewing Kolsch
» Gordon Biersch Sommerbrau
» Ballast Point Pale Ale

Tim Golden shares his obsession with all things craft beer monthly in the Star-Advertiser food section. See his blog, “Beer in Hawaii,” at beerinhawaii.com.